Zimbabwe- an epic African adventure

I’ve had a lot of interesting travel experiences to date, but this one’s definitely up there with the most epic- an overland odyssey from Beira in Mozambique to Chiredzi in Zimbabwe… in dad’s pick-up. That’s over 10 hours of pure Africa, pot holes and all!It was a family visit to Mozambique last Christmas to see dad who’s living there for work. Clearly not content with just relaxing by the pool, we decided we wanted an African safari with a difference… Enter Chilo Gorge in Zimbabwe. Chilo is in an area that is still unspoilt, much unlike the over-run wildlife parks in South and East Africa. We wanted a place that didn’t feel like a zoo, that was still wild.

The real Africa.

So we set off from Beira on a hot and sunny morning, the boot packed with food and water. Africa passed by my window- mud huts, banana trees, mangoes falling to the ground in overabundance. I drifted in and out of that sleepy state, although actually sleeping was impossible with the pot holes, erratic driving of other road users and Chinese construction projects that could cause you to have to off-road for a bit. We encountered our first obstacle about four hours later- toilet time. This means, look for a bush, hope a snake/ insect/ wild creature doesn’t get you and that a person won’t emerge from somewhere (trust me, they always will). Then it was back on the road till the Border Crossing.

This was not one of the trip’s highlights. Think two hours waiting in a hot and stuffy office with 30 others, one fan (not directed at you) and no sign of being able to enter Zimbabwe. Luckily, the parents are Africa veterans and we were soon on our way again, entering Zimbabwe. From here, it was about two hours to our overnight stop, Leopard Rock, deep in the Burma mountains. We wound up roads twisting through misty hills, plantation country, a heritage of colonial times. We asked for directions in villages when we got lost and eventually the pink edifice that is Leopard Rock rose out of the mist . We explored its award-wining golf course, and looked out for leopards. In the morning we played tennis on the most picturesque court ever, while the early fog was burned away by a ferocious sun; another hot day dawning. It was back in the car and onwards to Chilo.

It was another long day of potholes, pit stops and then finally, the sign for Chilo Gorge. So close. But there was still 43km of untarred road to contend with. The longest 43km. Ever. We passed through villages where the whole community would wave as we drove by, cows and goats would wander across the road, involving us in a deadly game of dodge-ums. Red dust rose up, stirred by the car. The rains hadn’t yet arrived; the rivers were dry, the ground sun-baked and cracked.

When we finally arrived at Chilo Gorge, we were totally exhausted from two days of travel. Luckily, the sight of the River Save from the deck made up for it all, complete with a family of elephants playing in the water. I knew I was going to love this place.

We fell into the rhythm of the bush, rising early with the red hot sun. Then breakfast overlooking the water. I’ll never forget the elephant family who came to bathe in the river on Christmas morning with the most precious baby. We named the mother Mammoth since her tusks were so long. There’s something about elephants, no words can describe their power and presence. You can tell they’re intelligent just looking into their eyes. To me they symbolise Africa- beautiful and powerful yet, fragile and volatile. Their ears are even the shape of the continent!

To start our safari, we first had to cross the River Save by boat to enter the Gonarezhou National Park. We took a walking safari twice with guide Thomas. The first time it was beyond hot. We trudged off in the baking sun, each of slowly loosing it in the heat, dad with a towel on his head, Maya tripping over her feet, me hitting myself with my water bottle (not sure why exactly). I think mum stayed sane somehow. We didn’t see much, but learned about the bush and it was exciting to be out there anyway. The ecosystem is so fascinating and intricate and does just fine without us humans interfering.

Our other walk was much more sombre, as we saw the effects of the drought. It made me feel selfish for hoping for hot, sunny weather. It was hard to watch a mother elephant and her baby, both emaciated from a lack of food and water, the baby stumbling behind her and then finally giving up and lying down. I don’t know if he ever found the strength to carry on, or if he simply stayed there, exhausted. Either way his mother would have stayed with him till the end and it was a harsh reminder of the brutality of life here.

On our safaris, we were lucky to see loads of elephants, often up-close and with babies, a huge pack of wild dogs, a leopard, a honey badger, jackals and loads of antelope and beautiful birds. The best part was how we were always the only jeep there.

Afternoons were spent relaxing and watching wildlife head down to the river- elephants, hippos, crocs, we saw them all from the refreshing waters of the swimming pool. Evenings were for watching the sun set and the stars slowly gather. The staff would light candles and we’d chat over dinner about each day’s adventures. Maya and I would head back slightly nervously to our hut for the night; this was leopard country after all. The whole place would be alive with the noises of the jungle, and we’d fall asleep to those hums, shrieks, and croaks outside.

One day we did a trek to a waterfall, a tough climb which produced a lot of sweat but rewarded us with amazing views. Overall, we really felt part of the place by the time we left; wild hair, mosquito bites, sun-burned skin. We left after four wild days, back the way we came, stopping at Leopard Rock for the night. We did a horse back safari there; which allowed us to get up close to zebra, wildebeest and giraffe. Then it was onwards to Mozambique the next day.

I had plenty of time for contemplation on the long road back, and thought that the description of the African countryside in the book Tick bite fever is summed up so perfectly: “miles and miles of bloody Africa”. Its so true. As I watched it fly past my window, I felt humbled by its vastness, its ancientness. There’s something about this continent that is awe-inspiring, it speaks of the futility of survival, the blood shed so often, the hardship. Its unforgiving and definitely the wildest place I’ve ever been.

There’s just something about Africa.

Funky Mozambican music greeted us as we reentered Beira, and we did feel like singing along. It was a beyond epic experience, I’d seen and experienced so much. The cool swim in the pool that afternoon had never felt more sweet.

Practical stuff:

Getting there– The beauty of Chilo is that it rewards the adventurous traveller who is prepared to work a bit to get there. Most guests were from South Africa or Zimbabwe itself and used to driving in Africa. To be fair, the directions were easy to follow, even we didn’t get lost. Unless you are starting in Mozambique, it makes most sense to fly into Harare and then drive, or from Victoria Falls.

Accommodation, food, game drives– In Chilo Gorge, you stay in these rustic hut-like things, with all the mod-cons (except AC- so take note if visiting in the wet/ hot season- you won’t get much sleep). Any time of year, take earplugs if you don’t want to listen to jungle/ wild animal noises whilst trying to sleep and don’t panic if a bat gets stuck in the mosquito netting. (Which happened to us of course- you are on safari after all!) All meals are provided plus they take refreshments on game drives. There’s loads of meat- vegetarians beware and bring your own snacks, although the staff will accommodate all diets if you tell them. Activities and game drives cost extra, so pick and choose what appeals to you. And ask for Thomas- he’s the best guide! Leopard Rock is a great place to break the long journey, and the the golf course is a must for any enthusiasts.

My top hacks– Three of them: Bring mozzie spray- this is malaria country. Remember that Gonarezhou National Park is still under the radar so whilst you will probably be the only ones around, it is harder to spot animals. Having said that, we saw loads and when you do see something it is extra special. So, make sure you bring a good camera and binoculars.

Come to Chilo with a sense of adventure and you’ll have an amazing experience.

Thanks to Maya for the beautiful photos.