The Castle Trail

Life can feel like an action movie sometimes, but suppose it was more like a fairytale, one with an ending that is still unwritten. This part of Scotland would certainly make the cut scenery-wise and I really did feel like some kind of new-age princess as I followed the area’s Castle Trail (albeit a princess wearing a large A&F fleece and Nike AF1s).

Like the Loire in France, Aberdeenshire has a rich history of royalty and has been left with countless crumbling castles. Exploring them all is quite a task but I’ve now seen six in the two months I’ve been here. I started with the ruins of Dunnotar, in Stonehaven, which I talked about in my post a few weeks ago. This must have once been the most beautiful place to call home, surrounded by a horseshoe shaped bay and the sea. My next castle was similarly dilapidated- Slains Castle at Cruden Bay. Apparently it inspired the author of Dracula, Bram Stoker who visited the area. I could kind of see why. I visited on a bright September morning, the sun cast long shadows across the old walls and turned the sea a sparkling jewel-blue. Waves pounded against the rocks far below me, frothing and ferocious; I could only imagine what it would be like on a stormy winter’s evening. The inside of the old structure was slightly eerie, overgrown with weeds, dark where there the sun didn’t reach. So much for my fairytale, this is beginning to sound more like a bad horror film.

Another day, another castle. The following Saturday I took a chance on the weather and headed inland to Tolquhon Castle. Although in better shape than Slains and Dunnotar, Tolquhon was still rather weather-beaten, but well-preserved. I had a nice chat with the lady at the entrance booth who told me a bit about the history of the castle, then I wandered around the grounds and clambered up the old stone stairs, for views stretching across the countryside. Every castle I visited was surrounded by the most idyllic landscape- gently rolling hills carpeted with cows grazing languidly, sheep trimming the grassy slopes. As Fall slowly rolls in the trees are ablaze with sepia leaves, which pirouette to the ground like ballet dancers with each gust of wind.

The next day I set of early, Westwards, and drove for about an hour through Alpine-esque scenery; lakes framed by pine trees backed by hills growing ever steeper. The road twisted and turned. It started to rain, but I pressed on, having driven so far already. I passed the small town of Alford, which had a frontier feel to it and finally arrived at the blush-pink Craigievar Castle. The walls really were rose-colored, and despite the rain, the whole place had a magical quality to it. The castle was surrounded by pasture and mossy woodland, the trees glistening with raindrops. This was the kind of place I’d imagined when I was young and mum used to read me bedtime stories about princesses. I’d found the perfect fairytale location, and stood awhile under my umbrella admiring it all.

I planned a loop back home, to take in one more castle for the day- Castle Fraser. This was an imposing old tower, presiding over its vast grounds like a general surveying his army. I stood and gave the building a metaphorical solute and then headed home, passing waterlogged shaggy cattle and finally seeing the slate grey sea as I neared the city.

 

My last castle (for now) was Crathes Castle, which I visited a couple of weeks ago. I had actually planned to do the high ropes course there, and so when that was done, I took a breather in the grounds. It was another beauty- its walls festooned with russet coloured ivy. The medieval gardens were still full of roses, hanging on as Fall swept in. I sat and looked out across the undulating fields of sheep, the last hay bales waited patiently. Golden light fell across the countryside as the sun came and went with the light clouds. The afternoon wore on slowly, gently. There was a subtle feeling of change somewhere with the wind. Perhaps this was the ending? Every fairytale needs one after all. But as I said at the start, this one’s still unwritten.

I prefer- To be continued…

You can go inside the castles but since I’m a cheapskate I just wandered around outside. The grounds are so huge and beautiful themselves and like most buildings, they’re more interesting from the outside I’m sure. If you do want to head indoors, I’d recommend becoming a member of the National Trust because then its FREE. 

Hope you have a good ending to your week xx 

All photos my own.