destinations

Koh Samet, Thailand

March 24, 2024

The most under the radar Thai island ever. I almost don’t want to write about it, and keep a it a secret. But anyway… here it is, a guide to the Thai island daydream you’ve always had.

Maya and I visited Koh Samet on a whim, one weekend in March. It was the middle of the hot season; long, cloudless days and blazing sun. We got a taxi from Pattaya to Rayong and from there, a speed boat to the island. The sun was starting its daily descent, casting golden light across the sea as our boat sped across the waves.

Once on the island, we took a baht bus to our hotel, Vongdeuan Resort. We could see straight away that this was a wild place. Most of the island is protected nature reserve and you drive through thick jungle where tree branches slash against the open truck and the air is alive with the calls of birds and the croaks of frogs and crickets.

By the time we got to the hotel, the sun was setting. We dashed to get changed and hurried into the sea, as still and warm as bath water. The sunset around us was all lavender and pink, against the silvery sea and the dark green of the jungle clad hills behind, as fairy lights twinkled back over the by the hotel. I always find this a magical time of day, especially in the tropics, and even more so, paddling in the ocean.

We also got to know a litter of puppies! There were a few semi stray dogs that lived around the hotel. All very sweet: Peaches, Sausage, Mama and her litter. We spent a lot of time picking up those weeny puppies and hugging them, and watching them play in the sand. one of the best parts of our stay for sure!

Early mornings we would walk or run on the beach and take a first swim in the sea. Then we would have breakfast overlooking the beach and sea. One morning, we took a baht bus around the island, stopping at different pretty beaches. The sand here is so white and unspoilt, back dropped by the deep green of the jungle. And hardly anyone else around. We also went to a viewpoint, and on the other morning, we went sea kayaking. This was an amazing experience since the water was so still we could paddle far out, and the water is so clear you can see right down to the corals below.

We would spend the middle of the day just sitting in the sea, or lying in the shade on the sand. And by evening we would enjoy the sunset and then take a baht bus for the wild ride into the little town, where sunburnt folks browsed little stalls and we would have dinner at one of the feet in the sand little restaurants.

It was an idyllic way to spend the weekend. The simple, carefree Thai island vibe of many years ago, one not many people get to experience anymore. Koh Samet is a sleepy, simple, unspoilt place, and we both fell in love with it.

We are already planning our next trip back.

Practical Stuff

Getting here- The closest airport is Bangkok. From there it’s about a 2.5 hour drive to Raying to get a boat to the island. Boats only take about 15 minutes to cross.

Where to stay- Our hotel The Vongdeuan Resort was basic but had a cute room and a beautiful beach as I described, as well as a nice restaurant. Can’t ask for more! For something more fancy, the Ao Prao resort is a good option, although the sea on that side of the island is not as calm.

Getting around- Baht buses are the only way, really. These are expensive so try to limit their use. It’s not really safe to walk as the roads are windy and very jungly.

What to do- the beauty of this island is the lack of major things do. Come to switch off, unwind, play in the sea and relax.

When to visit- the dry season would always be my recommendation for an island holiday, especially when taking boats etc and being outside all day. But this island is not as affected by the monsoons as those in the south of the country so you can always take a chance in rainy season too.

Thanks to Maya for the photos and company x

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