Bangalore to Chennai by rail

It was 11:10pm. The train was supposed to have left thirty minutes ago, and yet, it had not even arrived. Meanwhile, the already over-crowded platform got even busier. Women in saris of turmeric yellow and parakeet green, old men wearing dhotis and warm coats, girls in sparkly party dresses, running here and there, IT guys with their ubiquitous backpacks, jeans and checkered-shirts. We had already walked through the main station, where extended families were camped out on the floor, vendors were doing brisk business selling spicy snacks, and porters were collecting luggage. It was chaotic, noisy and dusty, and I was getting slightly tired of waiting.

We were in Bangalore Central Station, waiting for the sleeper train to Chennai. Having taken a train to Mysore a couple of years ago, we wanted to travel further this time, and at night. So, to Chennai. A 5-6 hour ride away. Our Grandpa was unimpressed with the train’s punctuality problems, and informed us that the train is normally there well before departure time. Understandable, considering these are 26 carriage-long beasts, and judging by the growing crowds, each was going to be filled to the brim. The announcement lady assured us the train would now depart at 11:20pm, which seemed optimistic. Eventually, almost reluctantly, a train lumbered along the tracks, filling the platform with dust and smoke. There was a flurry of activity, as everyone clamoured to get to the front, pushing through with their plastic bags and boxes. We were in first class, AC. We walked past the second and third class sleepers, with the grills on the windows, past the general carriage (for no reservations), and finally, after walking most of the train length, found our carriage. Maya and I had our own compartment! After the conductor checked our tickets I lay back in my bunk, feeling the gentle rocking of the train as it rolled out of the station (50 minutes late). I imagined the landscape we must be passing through; scrubland, the dusty streets of ramshackle houses, maybe some sleeping stray-dogs, then the countryside, groves of palm trees…

I must have fallen asleep at some point, because I was woken up by someone knocking on our door. It was our Grandpa (we were almost in Chennai). I groggily got ready, and soon was disembarking with all the other sleepy passengers, and walking the length of the train (again) to get out of the station. Grandpa apologised for the train’s antiquated appearance (once a railway officer, always a railway officer). We drove down Chennai’s slumbering streets, and by 6am, were checked into our room at the New Woodlands Hotel. The best part of staying here we quickly discovered, was a trio of tiny kittens, one coal black and two grey stripped. Whenever we weren’t visiting somewhere, we were down in the lobby area playing with them.

The hotel was basic (and we ended up boiling eggs and cooking oats in the kettle, after short circuiting our floor twice), but we didn’t spend that much time there. First thing, we set off for Marina Beach. All four of us squeezed into an auto rickshaw (me on Maya’s lap). A wild but short ride later, we were stepping off on to the second longest urban beach in the world. I am not sure that is true, but either way, Marina is long, and wide, and quite empty at nine in the morning. By evening it would be packed, but for now we had the corn colored sand almost to ourselves. Fishing boats were perched near the breakers, and the tide came in fast, crashing. The carousel that our Mum used to play on was still there, almost eerily, deserted. The sun was getting higher in the sky, so we piled back into the auto, and headed for some shade. Seemozhi Poonga is a small botanical garden nearby. The flowers were looking tired and the ground was dusty from the heat, but it was shady and peaceful, and, we had a mongoose safari. I have never seen the little creatures in the wild before, and here there were at least a dozen, who had called this garden their home. Mongoose spotting, not something I was expecting.

We retired for lunch, and more kitten bothering, sitting under the shade of rain trees as myna birds whooped and called. In the afternoon, we went with Grandma to T. Nagar, a shopping area of wide pavements and sari-shops, market stalls on quiet back-streets. It was shady and unexpectedly calm. A nice place for a wander. That evening as we waited for our taxi, we watched as guests arrived in clashing colors and gaudy jewellery for a wedding at the hotel, Tamil pop blaring from speakers mounted outside. The taxi crawled through rush hour traffic (at 10pm). Chennai had felt more rustic than Bangalore, less fast-paced and glitzy, but it looked like this city still liked to let its hair down after dark. This time, the train was already there, so after walking the obligatory 26 carriages we found ours. Then a brief spat with the conductor about who was in what carriage, and finally we could rest. I fell asleep quickly, rocked to sleep by the moving train.

Bangalore was still sleeping when we got down, a state I am not used to seeing the city in. Our adventure on the rails was over, and what an experience it was.

The rest of the two weeks in Bangalore passed by in a blur of swaying palm trees, coconut drinks on hot afternoons, bumping down the village roads, and spending lots of quality time with our grandparents. One afternoon, as I was watching birds swoop through the blue-white sky, I heard a train’s whistle carry through the hot air. I imagined the station, full of people, from all walks of life, struggling across the platform. The grilled windows, the AC carriages, quickly filling with people, things and stories. And then the train leaving, slowly, out of the city, into the countryside and beyond.

Practical stuff:

Getting here- Bangalore’s international airport is growing and growing and is served well by most major airlines. Likewise, Chennai has an international airport too that is quite close to most of the main sites. To travel between the two by train, you have to book well in advance (best at the station). First class AC is the most expensive and offers the most privacy, space and cleanliness.

Accommodation- Chennai has a variety of places to stay. New Woodlands Hotel is mid-range and has a lot of space, and places to eat, but as we found out, is not good for self-catering. It is very well located though for all the sights.

Things to do- In Chennai, Marina Beach is a must do. T. Nagar is nice for a wander, some shopping and people watching. There are many parks and botanical gardens around the city, the one we visited was very central (and had mongoose)! This website has a few good suggestions.

Other tips- Chennai felt a lot hotter than Bangalore, so keep that in mind. The AC in the train can be super cold- they do give blankets but they are thin ones.

So I’m back in the Netherlands, and already missing the sunshine. Have a lovely weekend, whatever the weather xx