It’s been ages since we had a summer holiday to France, so it was time to head back for sure. We arrived in Normandy early on a bright Sunday morning, and straight away remembered why we love France so much. The countryside seemed to pop with colour and life.
We had rented a house in the hamlet of St Simeon. It was an adorable thatched cottage, with traditional Norman wood panelling, and a giant garden all around. After unpacking, we were straight out into the garden to unwind and enjoy the morning sunshine. Suzi seemed right at home too. That first morning, we decided to get our bearings and do a small drive around the area. We used the smallest roads, winding through tiny hamlets in between farmland and miles of countryside- golden wheat, cows and horses grazing, forested hills.
The rest of the day we spent in the beautiful garden, the birdsong all around was amazing, and we enjoyed just relaxing in the sun (this was how we would come to spend all afternoons)! Suzi loved the garden too and would spend happy hours sleeping on the soft grass, or hunting the robot lawnmower (whom we called Jeff). And we would enjoy walks and jogs around the area- it was just all so picturesque and unspoilt.
The second day, we headed out after breakfast. Again, we chose the smallest roads, often only wide enough for one car. We stopped at St Georges du Vievre, a really cute village with traditional architecture and flowers. Then we stopped at Noards, a true farming hamlet, since cows seemed to outnumber people there. We took Suzi for a walk there, and every cow in the place came jogging over to see her! It was incredible, she literally was some kind of attraction to them. Some of the cows even gave us licks!
The next day, we started at the village of St Etienne sur Ailer, since we had seen it the day before and it looked very pretty. Here, there was an abandoned chateau in the middle of a wheat field, surrounded by forest. It was one of the most magical things I’ve seen, especially since we had the whole place to ourselves. We wandered in that field, under an impossibly blue sky, Suzi offlead sniffing everywhere. There were haybales dotted around, and I just had to climb one. After a few failed and hilarious attempts, I managed to scramble up (with a boost from Maya). It was a lot higher than I had expected! But you’ve got to do that once!
From there, we drove on, and stopped at the town of Morsan where a Norman fort looked down on the place. You could walk all around the ramparts, and enjoy views of the whole town and surrounding countryside. Another special find. We tortured Suzi that afternoon with photos, walking deep into the fields of wheat and corn… the epitome of European summertime.
Our last day. We found another circular route to do, passing through Martianville, whose name cracked us up. And then stopping at Fort Moville, which looked almost Alpine, with the timbered houses and rolling valleys backed by thick forest. There was an interesting nature walk to do there, and Suzi enjoyed that and we enjoyed the views. A short while later we stopped near the hamlet of Triqueville where a herd of semi wild cows was grazing. They had such a magical spot, in the dip of a valley. We spent a few minutes there before heading back home.
All too soon, our trip was over. We had another lovely time in France, soaking up the summer sun and the peace of the countryside. Suzi loved her stay too, she smiled everyday and had loads of energy! We are already planning our next trip back…
Practical information
Where to stay- We booked our place through Gites de France, a great website with lots of choice and very reasonably priced, even in the summer months. Our house, La Chaumerie was a great find, well equipped, clean and spacious with an amazing garden.
What to do- explore by car, and you’ll find all kinds of beautiful places to walk and picturesque villages, like we did. If you want to visit the famous landing beaches of World War Two, these are about an hour away.
When to visit- any time of year! But for a similar experience to us, it has to be summer! We were lucky with the weather, not too hot, lots of sun, but come prepared with rain gear anyway, as this is Europe after all!
Thanks to Maya for the beautiful photos and the fun xxx and to Suzi for being adorable xxxx
My dream since I was little, I’m lucky to have had the chance to swim with dolphins in the wild TWICE. Once in The Bahamas, and once in Mauritius, but it was the second one, in Mauritius that was truly special, since I was almost alone. I’ve spent hours researching swimming with dolphins, and I’ve read about places in every corner of the world. In case any one has been living under a rock, it’s not okay to swim with them in captivity, ever. But in the wild, that’s a different story. Dolphins are by nature playful, curious and enjoy interacting with humans. The important thing is to find a company that respects them, and allows you to swim with them but on their terms. Companies that don’t ever chase the dolphins, that stick to strict rules, and above all, love them as much as you do, are what you want.
My first time I ever saw dolphins in the wild was off the coast of Zanzibar. We had planned an excursion to swim with them, but when we saw all the boats chasing them and tourists plunging into the water in a chaotic mess we decided to just enjoy watching from the boat. Then a few years later, I came across a place in The Bahamas where you spend a week at a retreat and went out on their boat each day for a chance to swim with the dolphins. This was a lot better, since they were very respectful of the dolphins, but the problem was that there were LOTS of us in the water at the same time so it got chaotic, again. Fast forward another few years, and I was still looking for that experience as I had dreamed it; just me, the big blue sea, and a pod of wild dolphins. And finally, last October, I experienced just that, in Mauritius. I found that there are a lot of dolphins to be found along the coast there, and that it was possible to swim with them. And after a lot more research, I chanced upon Vitamin Sea, a local company who seemed to do this respectfully.
Mauritius is a truly beautiful and magical island, and I wrote about our adventures there in detail, if you missed it. Maya and I had to drive to the other end of the island to get there on time for the 6am departure. So we were off at 4:30, figuring out the roads in the dark, but luckily in Mauritius they are all pretty well maintained. We got to Rivière Noire in good time and then met the crew of Vitamin Sea. It’s a family business, and the co-owner, Cedric, and his skipper were waiting. The boat was modern and comfortable, and soon we were setting off. We had barely been out on the water a few minutes when we had already spotted fins! There is a resident pod of spinner dolphins who come into the bays to feed every morning, and seem to enjoy hanging out with people along the way. They’ve apparently been doing this for generations and are unperturbed by us. Cedric told us all this, and more, whilst checking on the dolphins, and determining when was right to get in the water. Eventually, he said we could get in, so I got my snorkel gear on, and slipped in as quietly as I could.
The water was freezing, (Indian Ocean, what?) but I didn’t have to wait long. We had entered in front of the pod, and soon we were surrounded by spinner dolphins! It was absolutely incredible; I was literally surrounded by the pod and they were very curious, they’d come up close to me and roll over, and dive deep down, almost as if inviting me to join them. Then eventually they’d all swim on their way, way too fast for slow fish like me. Cedric was great, he obviously loved being there, and really let me enjoy my time with the dolphins. It was incredible being the only two in the water with them. We repeated the swims a few more times, and each time I was completely amazed by their playful nature and grace underwater. It’s truly something incredible, to connect with such intelligent creatures in their home.
Afterwards we got to go to an amazing shallow lagoon nicknamed the Aquarium to swim with thousands of tropical fish in a kaleidoscope of colors. And then a fast ride back to shore, the wind drying my hair. I guess after all these years, my dream really did come true! And if you’re ever considering a wild dolphin swim, I’ve already done all the hard work for you!
The details- Vitamin Sea offers half day swims with the dolphins, from their base on the west of the island. Reserve well in advance- they book up fast (they’ll also take photos of you)! There’s a range of accommodation on Mauritius, but for a lovely little hotel on a beautiful beach I recommend Astroea beach hotel. Try to visit between September and November for the best weather and least crowds.
I don’t know about you, but it feels like lately fatigue is real. It’s like the past two years have drained you emotionally, and there’s not much left… and then more stuff comes along, like it always has and always will, and you’re just kind of left feeling completely exhausted. And then there’s the fact that it feels like time is passing fast, and yet, and yet… what have I done?
I always try to make my writing here super upbeat and positive, so this post will probably feel a bit different. But still… I don’t want to dwell on the ‘meh’ for too long, because ‘it is what it is’. If we don’t try at least to enjoy the small moments, and be thankful for what we have, then there’s not a lot left. So, taking inspiration from Suzi, who is almost always upbeat, other than early mornings (because really, why do mornings come so fast), let me try to put into words the GOOD, instead of the bad and sad.
Let’s start with the fact that the days are longer, there’s a lot of sunshine, it’s a dry spring, the blackbirds are singing. And I can sit in the garden for hours and enjoy all that, with Suzi. That’s something, right? And we have a big house and garden and space and miles of water and greenery all around. That’s something too, right?
And then there’s all the adventures I’ve had. When I’m missing those things, I should stop and think of them. I’ve seen a pride of lions and herds of elephants in the Tanzanian savannah, ridden a long-tail boat to a paradise Thai island, travelled in a sleeper train in India, traveled across the African hinterland, from Mozambique to Zimbabwe. I’ve surfed the waves in Portugal, discovered hidden beaches in Corfu, swam with wild dolphins through bright blue ocean in Mauritius. I’ve seen the world’s tallest building in Dubai, and one of the world’s oldest, in Rome. I’ve stumbled across the most beautiful abandoned French castles, watched the sun rise over the ocean in The Bahamas, skied in the Alps, slid down a waterfall in the Malaysian jungle, spotted puffins and seals in Scotland.
That’s quite a lot, right? And there’s so many more. And I’m lucky to have a sister to do most of these things with, and a crazy dog who is game for a hell of a lot too. And so many, many memories of another one, who I miss everyday. And on that note… no amount of time will ever be enough with them, or anyone you love. And if there’s one thing I know I’ve learned, it’s that.
The amount of time you’ve got here is limited, and you can only do what you can do. I know I’ll often feel I should have done more, and that I will often feel down when it all feels too much. When that happens, I promise I’ll come back here, and re read this. And remind myself that we all have bad days, bad months, years, decades. But in between, there’s some real good stuff, too. And a few people and a couple of sweet dogs, too. Thanks y’all xxx
Happy Birthday to Suzi! It’s hard to believe she’s ten… she still has the spirit and playfulness of a puppy! We recently celebrated her birthday with a homemade banana cake and flowers!
This was apparently one of the driest and sunniest Marchs ever here… and I can’t disagree. For a month that’s often very dreary and meh, we were lucky to have sunshine and often warm temperatures most days.
So… here are some pictures of Suzi doing here favourite thing- sunbathing!
A weekend in Northern France… kind of offbeat, maybe?
Just an hour north of Paris, the forested suburb of Meaux makes for an interesting weekend trip. We got there in about three and a half hours. Arriving in the dark, we could already see that it was surrounded by woodland, with small towns dotted through. Quite unexpected, so close to the large cities of Lille and Paris.
It took us a while to find the little Air bnb we were staying in, since it was down an unmarked road and reached via a set of stairs… but it was cute, clean and modern inside, and Suzi settled in right away on her place. The next morning she and I explored the little neighbourhood, to the song of blackbirds. And then after breakfast, we set off with Maya in the car.
We didn’t really know what to expect. You don’t hear much about this part of France, and what you do is generally about Paris… which is a shame, because as we discovered as we drove, this area has a lot to offer. The roads were winding through cute and well looked after villages, and the hillsides were dotted with forest and threaded through by the blue-green waters of a large river. It looked almost alpine.
We stopped at one of the forests to explore further. It was deep and dense; old trees growing close together, not much light. It felt untouched and un-manicured. Suzi enjoyed sniffing and exploring and looking out for wild boar. We spent the whole morning out and about, and in the afternoon I drove around Meaux a bit and was again pleasantly surprised by how grand the cathedral was, and the green areas surrounding it were full of dog walkers and cyclists.
We left late that afternoon, a tired Suzi in the back of the car, some wet shoes and coats in bags, but a smug feeling of discovering a place few would bother with. That’s their loss- because Meaux is well worth a weekend.
Practical stuff- Meaux is about 50 minutes North West from Paris by car and there are also trains. We stayed at an Airbnb which we found very well-equipped and clean, perfect for the three of us.
Hope that spring has sprung wherever you are, and thanks for reading xx Thank you to Maya for the photos 🙂
Musk rats sitting on a log, floating down a river. A loose cow, casually wandering down the village street. An abandoned castle, half strewn with vines, in the middle of the countryside. A giant horse, galloping in circles in a forest clearing while his owner looks on. Just a normal day in the heart of the French countryside.
After almost five years, it was so nice to arrive back in France. A special place for us, and kind of bittersweet this time without Prune. Suzi though, she embraced the adventure with us, and the week went by in a blur of forested roads, and emerald green hills grazed by chubby cows.
We were staying in the cute and tidy village of Langeron in the Burgundy region of France. Ours was an old buttercup coloured farmhouse, complete with low beamed ceilings and thick walls, and a large yard full of trees overlooking the countryside. It was across from the church, so we would be woken by bells at seven each morning, which was, for me at least, quite a convenient alarm clock!
Suzi loved exploring the garden, and Langeron has numerous roads and paths to enjoy a long walk, fields of rapeseed, friendly cows and noisy bulls. In fact, this area is home to the Charolais breed of cow, and you will see these shaggy white bovines all over, which we inevitably loved.
Like we usually do in France, we would pick a roughly circular route to drive each day, stopping along the way wherever took our fancy. That’s the beauty out here, you never know what you might come across, and we were often pulling over to check out an abandoned chateau or doing an eight point turn on a country road to get closer to something else we wanted to see. This area doesn’t have any must-sees, in particular, so even more reason to just explore.
Some of our favourite places that I would recommend if you do find yourself out here, would definitely include the very cute village of Appremont sur Ailler, named as one of the prettiest villages in France. It really is like being in a fairytale, with the neat stone cottages and flowers, and the river right there. We spotted a bunch of muskrats too, hanging out on the water! In that area, Sagonne is also a cute medieval village with its own chateau. And there is also an abandoned dungeon, the donjon de jouy, all in the vicinity.
If you’re headed south, then you’ll find yourself crossing over into the Auvergne region. The geography is similar, perhaps a little more hilly, but just as stunning. Here, the places of note are Bourbon l’archambault with its fortress and buzzy streets, as well as Souvigny with its large cathedral and narrow streets. There are also some interesting forested areas here, and you can stop for a walk at many, especially at the Foret de troncais. We took Suzi there and had fun exploring the mysterious dark woods.
Speaking of forests, for the OG, you need to head to the Morvan National Park, west of Langeron. The drive here itself is stunning- thickly forested hills and hair pin bends, each one revealing a view of the mist covered valley where mysterious black horses graze and cows move their family over babbling streams. We took a walk at one of the routes there, and the views were amazing. It’s quite a drive though, but you could take a stop along the way at the larger town of Decize.
If you visit one larger town, choose La Charité sur Loire. This beautiful place is set on the Loire River, and to reach it you park and walk over a big bridge with the river rushing below. There is a fortress above the town which you can climb to, and the views from up there are breathtaking of the river and town below. On a sunny day, you can see for miles. The drive to get here is also particularly pretty, and goes though cute small villages.
Some of our favourite villages and areas to explore were actually close to our base. Avril sur Loire for example, with a lovely long path next to the canal you can walk along. Or the neighbouring cute village of Fleury sur Loire where we encountered the escaped cow! From the village of St Parize La Châtel, you can walk in beautiful countryside dotted with abandoned chateaus. And the nearby village of Luthenay-Uxeloup has perhaps one of the most spectacular walks of all, a long path climbing up to a chateau, half hidden, with amazing views of the countryside. There are also some etangs in this area that are nice to check out (and where we met the rather excitable horse that was being exercised).
That’s the funnest part of these trips, the fact that you never know what’s beyond the next bend. That some town and villages will hold hidden surprises, and the people and animals you meet along the way will be what you remember the best. Sometimes not having any must dos or sees makes it even more exciting to explore. Especially with a four legged friend in tow.
Practical Information
Getting here and around- the easiest way is to drive from your base in Europe, or from Paris if flying in from abroad. You definitely need a car here to explore on your own steam.
Where to stay– we stayed in the lovely village of Langeron which is well located for all the activities I talked about. We rented a house through Gites de France which we found very reasonably priced. It was cosy and a nice place to come back to after a day’s adventures. We had some nice times together enjoying the garden and in the evening discussing our day and playing some games.
What to do- as I said, there are no real must dos, just enjoy losing yourself in this beautiful region. Burgundy’s tourism website is a good place to start for more inspiration. When driving around, Google maps is quite reliable for navigation.
Other things- We visited in December, and had a couple of wet days but mostly enjoyed nice weather luckily. There are pros to every season here, from Fall Colors to spring blossom and summer heat, but if you really want to see the Charolais cows that make this region so special, avoid January to April when they are mostly in their barns.
All in all, we had a lovely trip, nice to catch up together and enjoy some quality time exploring one of our favourite countries! Thank you to Maya for all the amazing photos 💕
It wasn’t long after I landed that I realised my bag was incredibly heavy. And that I’d be carrying it around the whole day. But I was quickly distracted by the shockingly beautiful architecture of the old town, and the sun shining off the cobbles on such a bright winters day.
I had decided at the last minute to come to Prague for the day. First flight there in the morning, last flight home that evening. Very ambitious perhaps but I’ll be controversial and say that I think Prague is doable in one day, especially if you stick to the old town and the surroundings, and don’t mind a fair bit of walking around this enchanting city.
Pragues’s Old Town is the focal point, the place you’ll always find yourself heading back towards. It’s an old market place style square lined with beautiful buildings in buttercup yellow and salmon pink, a grand cathedral (and at this time of year) a giant Xmas tree. There were a few Xmas stalls too, although there are usually many more. It was beautiful in the morning with the sunlight dancing across the facades, and buzzing by night when all the fairy lights were twinkling and the tree was sparkling.
From there, you can take a walk down any number of cute streets, each lined with stunning architecture and expensive shops. If you keep walking, you will cross one of many bridges over the Vltava river, and find yourself in the sprawling Letenske Sady park. This giant park has steep hills to climb and the most breathtaking views of the city you’ll find. I had a picnic breakfast and lunch there, each time overcome by just how pretty Prague was. Prague Castle can also be visited from there. It was closed for me but I admired it from outside.
I really enjoyed just strolling around the quieter streets, finding hidden curiosities like a crumbling cottage in the woods, or an ice rink full of happy Czech kids skating around. I eventually found myself crossing back over the river via the famous Charles Bridge and also caught the Astronomical clock in action. The Prague must-sees. I was very lucky it was such a perfect winters day, so I could spend most of my time outside. There are lots of cute cafes lining the square to warm up at, and admire the lights as it gets dark.
There you go, a day in Prague! It’s doable, just learn from me and don’t take a big and heavy bag. Your shoulders will thank you! Prague is definitely worth a visit, it really lives up to the fairytale cliche, plus the people are very welcoming and it was great to see Eastern Europe for the first time.
Practicalinformation
Getting there- Prague’s airport is served by many European airlines, including budget ones, so it should be possible to get a decent deal. From there, it’s about 20 minutes to the old town. Using Uber is the easiest and quickest way to get there.
What to do- as I mentioned, the old town and surrounding area are where you will find yourself most of the time, and half the fun is just wandering around and enjoying the atmosphere!
When to come- I visited before Christmas, so there was a lovely festive feel to the place. It can be cold but on a crisp winters day the city seems even more magical. It can get crowded in the summer, but I’m sure spring and Fall are beautiful too.
This is the last post of the year! Merry Christmasto everyone, and thank you for reading along this past year xxx
Since coming home from Mauritius we’ve spent November enjoying some little trips around the area with Suzi. It’s been fun to catch the end of the Fall Colors as well as discover some new pretty places, and Suzi also enjoyed it, I think! These are some of our favourites…
We took Suzi to the beach for the first time. The beach at BurghHaamstede is accessible to dogs from October to March. There are some steep steps to get there but Suzi managed, she wasn’t too sure about the cold sea though! Of course, if you’re going without dogs the summer is also really nice, but will be busy. This time of year on European beaches there is a calmer, more brooding atmosphere which we really enjoy.
Also in Burgh Haamstede, we discovered this lovely lake and woodlands you could explore. There are paths all the way around, and we were lucky to catch the end of the Fall Colors there (they were really nice this year, all the oranges and reds you could wish for). Dogs are allowed here too, on a lead.
There is also another woodland area that we walked through with Dad, and there there are various routes you can do, ranging from three to ten kilometres.
We also took Suzi to some lake areas nearby. On a beautiful sunny morning we found ourselves at HavenVan Bommenade, which she absolutely loved. She was running around, leaping over the water, dashing up the hills… it’s dog heaven! The sun glinting off the water and turning everything golden was very special, too.
The other place we visited is only a ten minute drive from us, near the village of Drieschor. It’s basically next to the Dyke so there are some lovely views of the lake and the countryside. It is very muddy though, so dress in clothes you don’t mind if they get messy.
This area is made to explore, and Fall is one of the best seasons for it, between the auburn leaves and forests, to the golden morning sun on the lake and the grey waves of the sea skimming the pale sand. And with Suzi in tow, it was even more special.
Ican’t believe it’s already December! I’ll have the last post of the year soon! Stay warm everyone xx thank you to Maya for the pretty photos
My first trip abroad in almost two years! And boy, it was worth the wait! The beaches are more beautiful than any screen saver, the water bluer. There are dolphins to swim with, hills to climb, waterfalls to chase, and a whole unexplored interior of banana plantations and rolling hills. The people are also great; friendly and helpful wherever you go.
Mauritius is a big island, and the best way to see it is by car. We rented a car which was a great decision, it afforded us the freedom to stop wherever we wanted, and the roads are in good condition. The views around every bend mean you’re never bored! To make this guide clearer, I’ve broken it down into the different parts of the island, and what you can expect to see and do in each.
The South East
This is the area we stayed in. It’s only ten minutes or so from the airport, which I found to be great after a long flight, and you get a longer vacation at the end too! This is also a peaceful part of the island, with fields of sugar cane, cute villages and beautiful beaches. In fact, our favourite beach on the whole island (and trust us, we saw most of them), was right here.
If you want the typical Indian Ocean dream, Point D’Esny is the beach you’ve been dreaming of. Think bone white sand, water in every shade of blue, dotted with boats bobbing, palm trees… you’ll find it here. Every beach in Mauritius is public, and it’s easy to access via a pathway from the road. We used to come here every afternoon, have a stroll on the sand and then sit and watch kite surfers and pet friendly stray dogs. We discovered this beach on our first day at Astroea hotel , but just kept coming back!
Our villa was in Blue Bay, the next town after Pointe D’Esny. We lucked out with this cute area, full of charming houses, friendly stray dogs, villa rentals, and it just felt so real. You could go swimming in the sea first thing, walk through the town by evening, and just be surrounded by locals. You really get a flavour of real life, far from the tourist trail, whilst still being in a lovely, safe neighbourhood close to all the sights. Just avoid Blue Bay beach in the weekends or late afternoon, and come first thing instead for a peaceful swim.
The South
This is an area few tourists see, unless you’re staying in one of the massive hotels, but even these are few. Most of the beaches in Mauritius are protected by a reef, which makes the waves small and bathing friendly. But not in the South, there is no reef, and so the waves come in hard and fast. These are not beaches for swimming, but for exploring, climbing on rocks, and sunbathing, since the constant breeze keeps things cooler and more pleasant.
In particular, La Cambeuse beach is a beauty. And for something really epic, check out Gris Gris. The road here also makes for a stunning drive, with constant views of the sea, threading through small villages and sugar cane plantations.
The West
Home to the famous Le Morne Brabant, the foreboding mountain often seen in pictures of Mauritius, the west is a real mix of wild and tame, between empty beaches and busy resorts. This is also not a bad area to base yourself in, but it is well over an hour from the airport, so keep that in mind.
Our first morning, we joined local company Vitamin Sea for a private boat trip. Honestly, if you do one excursion on the island, make it this one. It’s a three hour trip, and the guides are brilliant. Ten minutes out and we had already found a giant pod of spinner dolphins, and I had the chance to swim with them! It was surreal, spinners are super friendly and curious, so they’d come up so close, I could have touched them if I wanted to. And the guides are great, they keep an eye on you and help you if you are struggling in the water ( as well as take photos, which you absolutely should buy at the end). Afterwards, they take you to a stretch of water near Le Morne nicknamed the Aquarium, where you can snorkel to your heart’s content with thousands of fish, and enjoy unspoilt reef. The water is so clear and glassy it’s unreal. In between, they provide refreshments and funky music, so it really is an excellent morning.
When driving in this area, you’ll encounter some really stunning beaches. Some of them don’t even have names, so I can’t share them with you, which I’m not so sorry about since I hope they stay secret! I’ve never seen more surreal scenes, more Maldives than Mauritius. Just give Tamarin a miss. This town is trying for the surfer thing, so if that’s your vibe, by all means go. But we wouldn’t go back, there’s plenty of way more beautiful beaches to explore instead.
The East
Home to some of the most famous hotels, the East is only accessible by smaller roads, making for some stunning driving. You wind through banana plantations and sleepy villages, with the ocean never far away. There are not many must dos here, the big draw are the long stretches of sand. In particular, Belle Mare is probably one of the most famous. It’s easy to park and walk along, ogle the big hotels (and feel smug that we are paying a fraction to be on the same beach as them), and enjoy the views.
We did chance upon a unique side trip in the area. From the small village of GRSE, you can get a boatman to take you to a hidden waterfall. It’s about a 40 minute round trip, and you get to see some unique back waters and the falls. Well worth it, if you’re in the area.
Port Louis and The North
Port Louis is the capital city and well worth a visit. We were surprised by the modern architecture and very Miami-like water front, complete with cute shops and restaurants. It’s easy to also find the old part of the city with its market and hole in the wall shops. There’s a park and ride close by, but us being us, we just walked, it’s only ten minutes. From Port Louis, it’s just another twenty minutes to Pamplemousse botanical gardens. You can easily lose an afternoon here, strolling amongst the palms. Bring a picnic, and enjoy the shade.
The resorts of the North are about half an hour from Port Louis. This area is much more built up than the South, and had a more Thailandy vibe, with souvenir shops and places to eat on every corner. If you do want to do some shopping, this is your best bet. In particular, Grand Baie and the bazaar there. Likewise if you want to eat out. It was a nice outing, but we were glad to have chosen the south as our base as it felt much more authentic and Mauritian. The beach we visited up here, Trou aux Biches, was surprisingly lovely, with very soft sand.
TheCenter and Black river gorges national park
Most of the central west of the island is taken over by national park, in particular, the Black River Gorges. There are numerous hiking routes throughout, but if like us you just want to drive, you will still get a very good feel for the place. Lots of people seemed to hire taxis, which was understandable considering the hairpin bends and sheer drops. But we managed on our own and got some amazing views, as well as the freedom to stop wherever we wanted.
For example, Sophie’s walk, a real hidden gem. A cute well maintained woodland, with short, well marked trails so you could get a feel for the dense forest without straying too far. In general, the shades of greens and beiges, the awesome views of the tree clad valley, and the tangled vines make for an epic drive, and a must do away from the beach.
The islands
Mauritius has many small island neighbours, and they are a popular day trip. I only visited one, Ile aux Aigrettes as we thought the others would be too busy, and were probably right, considering the packed catamarans leaving for some of them. Ile aux aigrettes on the other hand, is a nature reserve and you can only visit with a guide.
Famous for the dodo, Mauritius is trying hard to preserve its endemic species to prevent something similar ever happening again. Ile aux aigrettes is totally protected, and as you wander through the ancient forest, you realise how fragile all these ecosystems are. I was lucky to spot the critically endangered pink pigeon, only found here, as well as skinks, other tropical birds and a few giant tortoise. At over a 100 years old, these guys really are living relics. If you chose only one island to visit, make it this one. You can find the ticket office and jetty in Mahebourg, in the south.
Mauritius truly was a dream, still an unspoilt paradise alive with nature. The variety is incredible, from dolphin spotting to trekking through thick forest, to lying on perfect beaches. Some of our favourite moments were the small ones, befriending the local stray dogs, myna birds stealing crumbs from our breakfast, finding an unexplored stretch of road though the sugar cane fields, a laugh with a banana vendor on the side of the motor way. You can squeeze a lot out of your trip, if you want to. And you should! I already can’t wait to return.
Practical stuff
Where to stay – as I mentioned, the South would be my recommendation. Astroea beach is a lovely little hotel right on the beach. And if you want to self cater, which is easy since the shops stock most of what you’d get back home, I can’t recommend the Beach house, in Blue bay highly enough. You can find it on Air bnb.
How to get here – flights can be expensive, so worth booking in advance, most are from the UK, France or Germany, but you can also connect through hubs in the Middle East, like Dubai.
What to do- as I said, there’s so much to do! It really depends on your tastes and interests. You can of course just enjoy the beach all day, but there’s a lot more to the island than that. Definitely try Vitamin Sea for a private boat trip ( book in advance) and a visit to Ile aux Aigrettes is very worthwhile too.
Getting around – we hired a car from Pingouin they were good and responded quickly. It’s easy to drive here, you can use your own license and fuel is cheap. alternatively, there are taxis everywhere and you can also hire a driver for the day.
Other stuff– they use two and three pin plugs widely. You can withdraw money with a foreign card at most supermarket ATMs and can exchange money at the airport, Port Louis, Grand Baie, and most hotels. When we visited, October, the weather was very pleasant. Avoid the cyclone season, from November to April, if you can.
As you can see, i had an amazing time in Mauritius, just what I needed as a first trip abroad after so long. Also, I hope Prune you’re reading this and enjoying the photos, after all, I’m quite sure you had come along with us xxx and thank you to Maya for all the laughs and the lovely photos 🙂
