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Layla

Dogs lifestyle thoughts and dreams

How to survive living in the South of France

May 19, 2023

Having spent a year in the South of France, there’s certain things I’ve noticed…

There’s a lot of mosquitoes. And bugs and worms longer than a meter, and snakes, and frogs that insist on coming into the house. But there’s also beautiful families of deer that graze in the field across from the house, and even wild boar that sprint across the countryside.

Hardly anyone speaks English. I guess this is a France thing in general, so I was forced to pull out the dusty high school French, and learned to gesture almost as much as everyone here to get my point across (there’s google translate, for emergencies). However, everyone is patient with my painfully slow speaking, and most people here are friendly, anyway.

Almost every town is cute and will make you want to buy a house there. No joke, each town is cuter than the next, with views that make you want to give up everything and spend the rest of your life right there.

You need to carry a stick at all times. There are feral dogs in almost every town. I’m warning you.

You’ll get burnt/ leave several shades darker. It really is sunny and warm most of the year. There are some cold days and nights though, and when it rains, it pours, but mostly, it’s Summer time.

You’ll get to know people fast. Everyone knows me now, probably as the strange foreign person, but still. And even the cats are our friends (Spud and Celery, I’m talking to you).

You’ll need a car to explore. There’s not much connectivity here, but the surrounding towns and villages and countryside are full of beauty and just need to be explored. From the Mountain views in winter to the fields of sunflowers in summer, and the cute villages of cottages and crumbling churches.

You won’t want to leave. Hotel California has nothing on this place.

Thanks to Maya and Mum for the beautiful photos

Dogs

South of France- Spring

April 27, 2023

Another update from the South of France, this time Spring! This time of year is much wetter, so everything is green and full of life. There have been some very warm days, some wet days, some windy days… a real, mixed bag! But it’s always a decent temperature at least to get out and explore.

We’ve also done some day trips- to Carcassone and Lourdes, both of which were very interesting, as well as discovering new cute towns tucked away here with cherry blossom trees and fields of cows.

Dogs

South of France Winter

March 6, 2023

I thought I’d share some photos of life here over the winter… we are extremely lucky that there’s barely been much cold weather, and in fact a lot of lovely dry weather and sunshine all winter. The sunsets and sunrises, the cute towns that had all the Christmas decorations up, the snow covered mountains in the distance… a lovely time of year here.

bucket list destinations

A day in Monaco

February 5, 2023

Just one day in Monaco? Luckily, since it’s the second smallest country in the world, it is possible to see most of this tiny place in a few hours, and mostly on foot! And even though this is one of the more expensive destinations, most things I did were completely free.

Look at the mega yachts in the Marina. Each one is bigger than the next, and it’s fun to stroll along looking at them all, and sit on a bench or at a waterfront cafe here.

Stroll through the gardens. There are many different gardens in Monaco, my favourite was the Jardin Exotique, with lots of cactus, colourful flowers and little birds, with beautiful views of the sea.

Ride the escalators into the rocks. Since Monaco is so small and is surrounded by mountains, you often need to ascend through them to get to the different levels of the city. It’s a fun experience to head ‘into’ the rocks!

People watch. You never know who you might spot! There’s lots of nice spots to sit and watch and enjoy the sun.

Take a helicopter ride. My favourite activity, and the only thing I spent money on. But it was worth it, the views of the coastline, the water, the mountains… amazing! And you get treated like a star, too! They offer a service between Monaco and Nice, or even special flights. There’s a few companies, I used Monacair.

Take a trip to Nice, or other towns on the French Riviera. It’s easy to go between the towns on the French Riviera, by train, car or bus, so you can combine these with a trip to Monaco.

That’s Monaco in a day, without spending like a rockstar…

Practical information

Getting there- you have to fly into Nice’s airport. It’s well served by most European airlines. From there, it’s half an hour by train from Nice’s central station.

Accommodation- it’s much more affordable to stay in Nice. There are a variety of hotels and apartments. The one I stayed at, Hotel Byakko was nice, I loved the roof terrace, but the area was very noisy at night.

When to visit- definitely try to avoid the peak summer months when it is packed. Off season is best since the weather will most likely be nice anyway. When the Grand Prix is in town it will also be a lot more expensive (May this year).

The hotel’s roof top terrace

bucket list destinations

Finland

January 24, 2023

I didn’t really know what to expect when we arrived in Finland. I mean, there are those Scandi stereotypes, some of which were definitely true. It is clean, spare, the people keep to themselves. Everything runs on time, there is blonde wood and white everywhere. And yes, it is COLD and in fact was snowing for most of our visit! But it just added to the atmosphere and made our stay even more magical.

We quickly discovered that Finnish words are unpronounceable. I’d love to tell you where we stayed but honestly I don’t really know… just that our apartment was warm, large, and a sanctuary to come back to after time out in the cold. Also, it was out of the city Center, so it was nice to watch local residents going around, instead of just tourists. (And it was only a twenty minute metro ride into the city anyway).

On our first day, we explored Helsinki. There was a lot to see; the pretty cathedral, the ice chocked harbour, the cute colourful buildings, as well as hidden surprises- a mosaic on a roof, a botanical garden. We of course had to visit the moomin shop- these adorable white lumpy creatures were created by Finnish author Tove Janssen and are as important to the Fins as Paddington is to the British. So we inevitably had to buy a ton from their stores!

On our second day, I organised for us to visit Nuuksio reindeer park. I’d been wanting to visit this place for ages and was excited to finally be able to go. To get there involved an hour car ride- which passed quickly with views of snow covered pine forest. We first stopped at the Finnish natural Center where we went for a walk in the woods. It was really breathtaking, and felt so unspoilt, like we’d made it to Lapland.

Then we headed on to the reindeers. They’ve all been rescued, and now live out their days in comfort and with a lot of fuss and food from visitors! We met our guide, who introduced us to the reindeer, and we got to feed them buckets of lichen, their favourite food! They were so adorable and greedy, and had warm, soft noses! My favourite was little Pearl, who was an orphan and white in colour. Afterwards we got to warm up in a traditional Finnish tent and enjoy coffee and hot juice warmed by the campfire, and chat with our guide. We had a great time, it’s such a magical place and it was hard to leave the little wonderland of Nuuksio.

And just like that our time was up! Our whirlwind stay in Finland was over. We’d seen so much and got a taste of Lapland. Another one ticked off the bucket list…

Practical information

Getting here- Helsinki airport is served by most major airlines. From there, using the metro is an easy way to get into the city Center and the suburbs.

Accommodation- We used Booking.com for our apartment. Airbnb is also an option. Ours was part of the local chain Westay.

Getting around- make use of the excellent metro and train network, but taxis or a rental car would be easier to reach Nuuksio. We found Uber to be very reliable.

What to do- devote at least a day to exploring Helsinki. The city is very walkable, and there’s lots to see. Also spend a day exploring further afield. For a taste of Lapland, head to Nuuksio. You can do a walk like we did and visit the reindeer. They are open to the public on weekend afternoons, other days, you need to book a private visit (which is what we did).

When to visit- it depends! We visited in January, the depth of winter, so there was a lot of snow which made it very magical, especially with the reindeer! Christmas can be very busy for that reason. Summer would be a totally different atmosphere- and could be very interesting! Maybe for a repeat visit, one day…

Thanks to Maya for the magical photos and company 💕

destinations

Andorra

December 29, 2022

A day trip to a new country! Dad and I enjoyed a very quick trip to Andorra, almost cancelled by the snow! We didn’t get to see very much of this tiny country, but the drive at least was breathtaking, through the Pyrenees, and the snow covered landscape was beautiful.

Dogs

South of France- autumn

November 25, 2022

Suzi seems to have settled in well to her new temporary home, clever girl escaped the worst of the winter and is enjoying milder temperatures in the South of France!

Nice too to have visits from everyone, and we continue to explore this pretty area. It’s beautiful this time of year, in the autumn, with the beautiful colors in the leaves and golden sunrises and sunsets, not to mention the Remembrance Day services and proud French flags flying in the little villages, plus the first glimpses of the snow on the mountains.

Sorry for my absence here, I will try to write more often again! Xx

destinations

Samatan, France

October 28, 2022

This trip was two years in the making! Glad that I finally got to visit Samatan way down in the south of France. Closer to Spain than Paris, this part of France feels decidedly more Mediterranean, with the sun bleached houses and banana and palm trees, juxtaposed with the rolling hills of green in the background, and, on a clear day, the distant peaks of the Pyrenees towering on the horizon.

Samatan itself is a good sized town of faded grandeur; buzzy by day and evening, full of life whenever you choose to stroll down. Surrounding towns and villages of Auch, Castelnau Barabens, Boulougne Sur Geese, Boulaur and Saramon, are all good to visit, with beautiful little streets to explore, cathedrals and churches to visit and all around, stunning views of the countryside.

But you can also pass hours sitting on the balcony, watching families of deer move tentatively across the forest, birds of prey ride the thermals far above, and enjoy the sound of nothing much at all.

Sure, it felt more like summer with long dry and warm days and lovely long evenings, but still, I reckon there will be magic to this place all year round. The streets and the houses and the trees and those mountains, they all tell stories, and I’ve barely scratched the surface…

All photos my own or Mother’s 🙂

destinations Dogs

Late summer France

September 23, 2022

Golden evening sunshine falling across the hills and forests, horses grazing… back in the French countryside at one of the nicest times of year. This time, we were staying close to the border with Luxembourg and Belgium, in the area known as Grand Est, in the cute village of Doncourt-lès-Longuyon.

Our Gite was an old farmhouse, over a hundred years old, according to the owner, and had even hidden soldiers during the Second World War. It was large, spacious, and had that peaceful and thoughtful feel of a building that had already seen it all. We settled in, pleased to find a riding livery yard right next door, so we could hear the whinny of horses and the clip clop of hooves on and off all day!

The village itself was surrounded by beautiful walks in the hills, where the aforementioned horses grazed, semi wild, and cows and their tiny newborns too. If you puffed to the top of the hills you got a lovely view of the whole village in the valley, and even the neighbouring villages. We enjoyed lots of walks there, most of all first thing in the morning or evening, when the golden light was the most beautiful.

We enjoyed exploring the area with Suzi. Most of the villages were tiny, well-kept and pretty, with flowers growing, blue shuttered buildings and cows and horses grazing right there. Some of our favourites were Udny, Xivry, Pillon, Beauvillers and Arrancy, all good for a wander amongst the cute and colourful old buildings.

We also discovered a giant chateau in Cons La Grandville, and a beautiful nature reserve which you could walk through and end at an etang, at Amel sur Etang. The drives in between were stunning, forests meeting the fields, villages in the valleys, and the first hints of colour in the leaves.

This part of France is so close to the border with Belgium and Luxembourg you could dip in and out of all of them! We did a drive through Luxembourg, so much more manicured than France, but similar with the forests and small towns. All in all it was a lovely trip, and so nice to explore this underrated area of one of our favourite countries with Suzi.

Practical information

Getting here- it’s about a three and a half hour drive from where we were in the Netherlands, and even closer from Brussels or Luxembourg. A car is a must to get around and explore.

Where to stay- we used Gites de France again to book our place. They have lots of choices and are reasonably priced.

What to do- you can follow our suggestions, or just enjoy discovering cute little places as you drive around.

When to visit- any time of year! It’s a practical house with a mud room and games room, so would also be nice in the winter!

Thanks to Maya for the lovely photos and to Suzi for being a good girl again xx

bucket list destinations

Istanbul, Turkey

August 5, 2022

It’s funny that Turkey was never a country I had any plans to visit. Sitting almost in the middle of the world, I’ve flown over it many times but never thought to actually stop by. Finally, I had the chance to, with a short trip to its largest city, Istanbul. I didn’t really know what to expect, but I was amazed by what a beautiful city it is, and just how much there is to do there.

Sitting in the middle of two continents, Istanbul is the only city in the world like that. Our hotel, Limak Eurasia, was on the Asian side, in a business district full of normal people heading to work in glossy offices. There were cute local cafes and shops, and just ten minuets away, the hills closed in on villages, full of pine trees and shady paths. One of these places, Goztepe Park, became a firm favourite of ours. It felt so far from the city; butterflies fluttering through meadow, tall trees, and a very friendly dog we called Micki who hung out with us (and an overly nosy cat).

Another surprise was how boats seemed to be a preferred mode of transport. I guess this makes sense since Istanbul is split by the Bosphorus, and to the south lies the Sea of Marmara. I’d heard that the latter was dotted with islands that were the perfect place for a day trip. So we joined throngs of Istanbulites- whole extended families with picnics, starry eyed couples and groups of young friends, and made the one hour crossing to the islands. The sky and sea were an electric blue, and you could watch the city skyline slowly disappear as the islands crept into view: covered with pine trees and pebbly beaches, almost like those you’d see in Greece.

We disembarked, and it really was like arriving in Greece. Every house was festooned with bougainvillea, there were old ladies hanging their washing out of windows, and spying on proceedings below, there were secret beaches down steep paths, local kids splashing in the water, small shops selling trinkets. And you could only get around by bike, or electric buggy. It was a truly idyllic place to pass the day, the hot afternoon disappearing and before we knew it it was time to take the boat back to the city. Seagulls flew behind us, hoping for snacks, and back in the city, we joined the evening traffic, sunburnt and tired, back to the ACd hotel.

Another day we decided to explore the European side, where some of the most famous sights are. We got a taxi to the port town of Uskudur, and from there, another ferry, this time crossing the Bosphorus to the European side. The ferry was large and spacious, with beautiful views of the city skyline. Again, it was popular with regular people, even commuters, not many tourists.

There was a lot to see when we arrived. We wandered through the spice market and the Egyptian bazaar, narrow streets crammed with lantern and carpet shops. There were beautiful mosques and vendors selling breads, and pigeons swooping around stealing what they could. Then we headed to the nearby neighbourhood of Balat. This colourful area is full of cute shops and apartments literally in every colour of the rainbow. And there was also a lovely area nearby with benches overlooking the Bosphorus for a quick rest before taking the ferry back to the other side.

There is so much more to see, we barely scratched the surface and definitely need to return! And the people were friendly and helpful, and seemed to care for the numerous stray dogs and cats, like Micki at the park, and even our hotel had a resident hound with her own little kennel! Just be warned that English was not widely spoken at all so be prepared to have a translation app or screen shots of where you want to go on your phone.

Practical information

Getting to Istanbul- Istanbul has three main airport, the main two are Istanbul International, served by Turkish airlines and others, and Sabinha Gocken, served by budget airlines mainly. Both are around 30 minutes from the Asian side where we stayed.

Where to stay- we stayed at Limak Eurasia hotel, a very pleasant one on the Asian side, they have a pool, restaurant with outdoor dining and helpful staff. Rooms are clean and the AC is great! There’s a taxi stand right outside.

What to do- as I said there’s a lot to do in and around Istanbul. Ferry timings can be confusing, it’s best to show up at the harbour in good time and enquire there what the sailing times are since these can vary. Ferry crossings are very cheap, and so are taxi rides so I would not bother renting a car unless you plan to travel further outside of Istanbul.

When to go- Istanbul is popular all year round, but be prepared for freezing temperatures in the winter and boiling ones in the summer. I did though like the vibe in the summer and it wasn’t as crowded as I thought.

Thanks to Maya for the lovely photos and for organising this trip!