Layla

It’s the dream, isn’t it? I’ve poured over thousands of articles in glossy magazines of these idyllic islands. And when I found out they are only a four hour flight away from Thailand, I knew I had to go. After you arrive in the capital Male, a boat will take you straight to your hotel. It’s a very unique airport; you literally have a jetty attached where all the boats pull up.

I was staying at Centara Ras Fushi and got picked up by their own speed boat. It had squishy white leather seats and whisked us across the water quickly. It was only about 20 minutes to the hotel. Most hotels here take over their own little island, or atoll. Mine was just the same. A tiny pin prick of sand in the Indian Ocean. And the best bit? My room was the traditional over water villa. So I could literally walk down steps into the sea, and spend all the day watching sea life go by beneath my porch.

Days here are simple. You wake up, watch the sunrise and pale blue skies grow brighter from your porch, maybe take a morning swim in the sea. Breakfast at the restaurant in the main part of the island, amongst the palm trees. You can swim from the beach, or straight from your villa. I spotted a ray, parrot fish and countless other kinds of fish just around my own villa! And every afternoon they would feed sharks who would come and swim right up to the jetty. Not huge ones, but epic all the same.

Of course, you have to go snorkelling. I went on a snorkelling trip with a guide from the hotel. The reefs were beautiful, just teeming with life. So many different kinds of colorful fish, clown fish, needle fish, all just twirling over the sloping reefs. And I even swam with nurse sharks! This was an incredible experience. Literally surrounded by plenty of these huge sharks was something I’ll never forget. And sting rays too.

And just to top it all off, I went on a sunset cruise on the traditional Dhoni boat. We went dolphin spotting and were lucky enough to see several of these beautiful animals. They rode close to the boat, twirling and dancing for us.

All in all, The Maldives was an experience I’ll never forget.

Practical stuff

Getting here- Male is served by most airlines. From there, most hotels will arrange a pick up service, either by speed boat or sometimes by seaplane for the further islands.

Where to stay- My hotel Centara Ras Fushi was a good choice. Lovely bucket list rooms over the water, knowledgeable guys at the dive Center to take you snorkelling or wildlife spotting, and a good location just a short speed boat ride from the airport.

What to do- as much or as little as you like! People often worry they would get bored here. You can literally spend the whole day just watching the different fish swim underneath your villa. Having said that, I’d say anymore than a week would be too much.

When to go- I went in February which is technically dry season, but we did have some rain the first two evenings. It was quite epic over the sea, and didn’t disrupt much, and the rest of the time was lovely. Any time of year be prepared for sudden storms, and wear tons of sunscreen. The sun is so sharp here, as I found out the hard way 🙁

Another new country, to start the year. To Laos, a beautiful, off the radar place with lovely people, beautiful nature and a lot to do. I squeezed this into a weekend too, from Thailand. I flew to the capital Vientiane, and from there, took the two hour drive north, to Vang Vieng. I didn’t see too much, as it was late at night, but when I woke up the next morning, it was one of the most magical sights.

Stepping onto my balcony at the Silver Naga hotel, you could see hot air balloons suspended in the air, the sun rising over the river, green hills and a pale blue sky. I took a jog by the river, watching monks quietly making their way, dogs sleeping, local kids eating breakfast. We took an open sided van to explore.

Heading into the countryside, surrounded by towering peaks covered in jungle, buffalos grazing the fields underneath. Dust from the gravel paths rising up. It was like nothing I’d seen before. We stopped at the entrance to a hike. It was easy at first, just a bit steep. Then suddenly it got harder until we were having to haul ourselves up over rocks and gullies, using jungle vines and bamboo to support us. I wanted to give up, a few times, but somehow made it to the top.

So glad I did, because the views were unreal. Just nature. Mountains, hills, green, brown. Nothing else. So beautiful. After resting we had to make the long trek down, which was even more terrifying. But I did it, and was quite proud, it was not easy and definitely the hardest hike I’ve ever done. From there we drove to the blue lagoon. It was a nice place to rest and have lunch. And then, a peaceful afternoon by the hotel pool, watching boats on the river and a few more hot air balloons, when the sun set.

The next day we took a boat, and had a river tour. These long, narrow boats chug sedately along, and it feels wonderful out there, between those towering karsts of green. Buffalo come down to drink and swim, and we can get up close to them. Kids play in the river, and wave, and try to splash us. Old ladies wash the clothes, men fish quietly… like turning back the clock, to simpler times.

We then went to one of the fanciest hotels around, for a drink, the Vang Tara. If you get a drink or meal here, you have access to their private rice paddies, which are magical. There’s a long path through them, backdropped by those mountains. And if you’re really lavish you can stay the night. Maybe next time…

Practical stuff

Getting here- Vientiane has a small airport and you’ll most likely have to connect here via Bangkok. From there, it’s about two hours to VV. Our hotel organised a transfer.

Where to stay- I liked our hotel, The Silver Naga, right on the river, nice pool, and they can organise tours and transfers. Just a note though, their soundproofing of the rooms is bad.

What to do- so much! Definitely do some hikes but be prepared, they are tough. Also take a boat tour, visit the night market, the lagoons, even hot air ballooning.

Getting around- the central area is walkable, and otherwise the hotels can arrange transport.

When to visit- usually I’d say the rainy season for cooler weather and less crowds but this time I’d say the start of the dry season. Everything is outdoors and the hikes would just be dangerous in the rain. January is a great month because it is dry but still not that hot.

I really liked Laos! Hope to come back one day and maybe try the hot air balloons…

Finally, Christmas! On my way back to France I had a layover in Doha, with Qatar Airways. Exactly 24 hours. I knew I would have time to rest and explore, and the great thing is when you book with this airline they allow you to include a stopover and it’s virtually free. You pick one of the hotels that is part of their package, and it’s like an extra mini holiday.

So, I arrived in Doha at around 6am. You get a visa on arrival, and the taxi to the hotel took only ten minutes. The hotel, The Royal Riviera is simple but perfectly fine for a short stay, and does have a cute rooftop pool and free breakfast.

I dumped by bags, and by 9 am, was heading off into the desert. I booked a tour in advance because I had always wanted to explore the desert, and there is one just a couple of hours outside the city. I chose the company Falcon Tours and found them very professional. They picked me up around 9 am, in a giant Land Cruiser. We drove for about an hour, till we got to a place on the outskirts of the desert, a sort of tented camp. There were camels, falcons, and we could buy hot tea. Holding a falcon was interesting. They are so heavy!

From there it was straight into the desert. They deflated the tyres slightly and we were driving right on the sand, up and down the dunes, sometimes sideways, sometimes backwards. It was incredibly exhilarating, to say the least! We made a couple of stops to admire the view, see the inland sea, and also try dune boarding. It was fun whizzing down the dunes on a board!

We went down to the sea, and I took a walk along the shore. So surreal to be by the sea in the middle of a desert. You could see the rugged land of Saudi Arabia across the water. Then we were off again, back to base, my driver blasting Urdu music on the radio, and me falling in and out of sleep.

In the afternoon I took a stroll along the Corniche, the long promenade next to the water here, and went for a ride in a dhow boat, across the water and back. I watched the sun set, and that was that. Back to the hotel to chill by the pool for a few hours, and then, to bed. Except I instead fell asleep by the pool and inadvertently spent a night out there, under the stars. Desert camping experience?? Check.

By 6 am, I was heading back to the airport, finally ready to fly home for Christmas, a cool little adventure here, wrapping up this whirlwind year.

Practical stuff

Getting here- Qatar airways flies from most corners of the world and if you’re clever you can book a stopover for almost no extra cost.

Where to stay- if you’re on a stopover you’ll be limited to the hotels included in the package. But still, they are central, close to the airport and just fine for a short stay. Mine also had a cute pool.

What to do- definitely do a desert safari! If you have more time you can visit the islands nearby, go shopping at one of the malls, or the old town.

When to visit- I was there in December and found the temperature perfect for exploring, not too hot, but maybe a little chilly in the pool. Summer is very hot, and the months of Ramadan will limit you slightly on what is open. Just ask my sister, who flew through at that time of year…

Another place that’s always been on my list. I only had the weekend, but managed to squeeze a lot in. Here is a list of the best places to visit in Hong Kong, and yes, you can squeeze it all into just a couple of days!

Victoria Peak– chances are you’ve seen pictures of the tram that climbs up to the top of Victoria Peak. One of the top must dos here, you climb on to the tram and it climbs up a steep slope, to drop you at the top of the hill. From up there, you have excellent views of the city skyline, complete with forested back drop. Go early in the day to avoid the crowds.

Ride the Star Ferry– this famous ferry is ridiculously cheap, just a few cents for a ride across the water, taking you from one side of the city to the other. Try it once in the day and once at night, to really enjoy the atmosphere of the city lights glinting on the water.

Victoria harbour and water front- a great place to stroll any time of day, but especially as the sun sets and all the lights of the buildings come on. There are light shows too and lots of places to eat and drink.

The Ritz Carlton Hotel rooftop bar- this is the highest bar in the world right now, up 108 floors. The view is dizzying, and the sushi is amazing! Come dressed up.

Lantau island and cable car- Hong Kong is made up of many islands, and Lantau is one of the most special because it houses a huge Buddha statue, and you reach there by cable car. The cable car ride is breathtaking; travelling over the sea, forest and steep gorges. You’ll forget you were ever in the city. Exploring the island is fun too, there are steps to climb up to the Buddha and great views, and there are cute wild mini cows, little shops and cafes, and temples to visit.

Kowloon Park- a large park in the middle of the city. A nice place for a picnic and there is also a walk through aviary and plenty of koi ponds.

Practical stuff

Getting here- Hong Kong has a large airport served by most international airlines. From there you can get an uber into the city.

Where to stay- Grand Harbour View is a nice hotel centrally located.

Getting around- Uber is widely used and surprisingly not too expensive. The metro is cheaper and easy to use, too.

When to visit- I visited in December and didn’t pack warm enough clothes coming from Thailand, the nights and evenings especially were chilly, so keep that mind, but the days are dry and still in the high teens, so pleasant weather for sight seeing. There is also the added magic of Christmas, with lots of decorations and all the malls decked out in tinsel and glitter.

Japan, so far away, so mysterious. Like a whole other world, no where else quite like it. And finally, we made it there, in October, Tokyo basking in the start of Fall.

Glad to have Maya along for this adventure! We touched down in Tokyo, and could see Mount Fuji as the plane descended. We were staying in an Airbnb and it was the cutest place ever! A little balcony, low beds, plants, the perfect location near the metro stops.

We used the trains and metros a lot, in fact, we more or less relied on them to get around. It wasn’t always easy… nothing was in English and it wasn’t very self explanatory, but still, it was efficient as they say it is. We explored different neighbourhoods in Tokyo- chancing upon bonsai gardens and koi ponds juxtaposed with the shiny skyscrapers behind. Harajuku was full of pretty girls in funky clothes, and shops selling candy floss. The parks were beautiful, full of autumn leaves and shrines hidden along the paths.

By night, we explored further. We had to witness the famous busy street crossing, which was an experience. We tried to win stuffed narwhals at arcades and contemplated what to buy from the vending machines. We watched Tokyo’s youth in their cosplay outfits hanging out outside bars with neon signs, and ate sushi wraps on benches.

We took a bullet train, twice, out of the city. Watched as the world whizzed by, caught glimpses of that mountain. These towns were quieter, the pace of life slower. Old ladies hang out their washing, cats lay in the sun. We bought iced coffees and watched it all. The sea side town of Kamikura had lots of cute gardens and hilltop views, and large temple complexes to wander through. We lost count of the cute places and photo opportunities.

And we loved the neighbourhood we stayed in, where kids went to school in wheelbarrows, and business men loosened their ties after work in tiny bars, where people biked to work and everything seemed to be done on low volume- our chatter seemed to be the loudest thing around.

We fell in love with Japan. It is every bit as magical and exotic as you thought. Go, if you get the chance.

Practical stuff

Getting here- Tokyo has two airports- Narita and Haneda, both serve most international airlines.

Where to stay- We booked our accommodation through Airbnb, it was called Prime Suites. It was an excellent base and there are a lot of convenience stores around for supplies.

Getting around- make use of the metro and train service for sure. Taxis are incredibly expensive.

What to do- so much! Just enjoy exploring and soaking in the culture. Everything is an experience in Japan.

When to go- Each season has something to offer. We went in early Fall, and the weather was beautiful. Sunshine, fall colors. Perfect. Spring of course has the famous cherry blossoms, and winter could bring snow and the bonus of skiing in the countryside. Summer could be very hot.

Thanks to Maya for the lovely photos and company x

Hi there, it’s been a minute. A year after moving to Thailand when I ironically have loads to write about, I’m finally actually doing that. And first up, Cambodia.

I’ve wanted to see Angkor for as long as I can remember- enthralled by the thought of vine covered ancient temples in the middle of the jungle. Fascinated by a place so ravaged by war but still so beautiful. And I wasn’t wrong, it really was all that, and more.

I flew to Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor from Bangkok, a short one hour hop over rice paddies and remote villages. We landed on wet tarmac, after a heavy shower. Rainy season. Water buffalo grazed near the runway, and an open sided trickshaw took me to my hotel, Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel.

I fell in love with it instantly. A cute pool, friendly cats, a sweet dog, yoga classes on the rooftop… the perfect little place to crash after visiting the temples.

The temples themselves were only a short ride away, and my lovely guide who I wish I remember his name but I’ll always remember his smiling face and friendly nature, took me around all the big and less famous temples.

Angkor was epic, like I imagined, but there were so many others. Some hidden in the jungle, reclaimed almost by the vines and ferns. Others surrounded by lotus filled lakes, others that you had to climb way up to. It was an adventure, seeing them all, tiring in the sun and humidity, but totally worth it.

I’d love to go back one day. The people were some of the nicest I’ve ever met, despite their depressing history. And it is still unspoilt, maybe a cliche, but probably how Thailand was thirty years ago.

Practical stuff

Getting there – I flew from Bangkok to Siem Reap and regardless of where you’re coming from, you will probably have to do that because Siem Reap is tiny. I used Bangkok Airways and really liked their service.

Where to stay– The Baby Elephant was the perfect choice and I highly recommend it. Lovely staff, yoga, a cute pool, a little spa… perfect.

Getting around and what to do – Ask your hotel to organise trips to Angkor and the other temples. They’re not far from the city Center. You’ll need at least two days to get an idea of the main temples as well as some off beat ones. The chilling Killing fields are also in the area, a sobering reminder of this country’s dark past.

When to visit – I visited in September, peak rainy season, and we did have a lot of rain but only in the evenings and the day itself was fine to explore. I think the dry season will be a lot busier. Avoid the hottest time of year from March to April.

Thanks for coming back to this space, if you did. I’ll try and update it more regularly for now on, got loads of content from a year of travels around Asia. Much love xx