So I unexpectedly found myself back in France, at the start of November. Turning a new leaf (get it) after my Thailand adventure. And this is my favourite season, especially when the weather cooperates as it has all month here down south. The red and orange leaves, the golden morning light, the pink streaked skies at sunrise, the deer running through fallow fields. Back to all our old haunts, popping into cathedrals, lighting candles, strolls on quiet country lanes and into the village after dark.
It’s good to be home.
Can’t believe it’s almost the end of this crazy year. Last post of 2024 next month! Stay cosy! Much love x
It feels like just yesterday I was first arriving in Thailand, choosing a place to live and figuring out how to survive driving on those roads. And now, here I am, thousands of miles away, both literally and metaphorically. Back home, watching the leaves fall and feeling the silence of the empty fields and sky, I have finally had the time and space to reflect.
It was a mix of exciting, scary, overwhelming, exhilarating, lonely, intense, fun and filled with experiences I will never forget. I was lucky to have been able to travel to so many places I’ve always wanted to go, from finally exploring Angkor Wat in Cambodia, to riding on the back of a motorbike through the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh, to travelling by bullet train in Japan. I will never forget the views from the top of the rocks I climbed in Laos, swimming with sharks in the Maldives, or sliding down a sand dune in the Qatari desert. I was so lucky to have explored so much of Asia. And in Thailand itself- swimming in the sea at sunset, watching monks collect alms on my way to work, swinging between coconut trees, snorkelling with rainbow colored fish, kayaking to paradise beaches, watching elephants from my room… there have been so many beautiful moments and memories here.
And some of my favourite moments were those with the people I met. Laughing with my hairdresser and patting her chihuahua. The two guys who gave me a lift back to my hotel after a night ocean swim on the back of their motorbike. The people at the restaurants who knew what I’d always order- plain rice and watermelon smoothie. And the friends I met- our beach walks and hiding from thunderstorms under the tables of restaurants, getting our boat stuck in the lillies and going to hundreds of temples.
There have been plenty of scary moments too. Just getting on the road each day, to start with, leave alone trying to negotiate the millions of motorbikes and crazy drivers in a huge pick up. And then, the inevitable car accidents. There were the hair raising motor bike rides and running away from a pack of dogs. There was getting lost and getting sick, far away from home. Which leads me on to say, I was surprisingly lonely. Not always, but often. I felt the distance, and the time difference.
From crazy disco tuk tuks and rooftop bar Bangkok nights, to bargaining for bananas and google translating plain rice, to the quiet sunsets from my balcony and myna birds who chirped while I swam in the pool. To the elephants and the sweet dogs and puppies and the cat that slept on the end of my bed. To the storms I’ve watched and been soaked in, to the blazing hot, blue skied days. To the mosquito bites and the tears and the laughs and the oh-my-god moments. I’ve lived more than I ever have, in this past year and a half. And for better or worse, I’ve learned so much.
Finally made it to my fifth continent! As soon as I landed in Perth, I knew I was going to like it. It is like a mix of Europe, America and a little bit of Asia (there are a lot of Asians here who bring their culture with them) and of course, the weather is amazing. When I was there, it was their spring time, and we had pleasant days with sun and not yet too warm, perfect for exploring.
I was staying in the middle of Perth, close to the Swan River. I would go for a run along the boulevard every morning, watching parakeets in the palm tree and boats on the water, along with lots of others out before work. It was a good place to start the day, and also to end it; watching the sun set over the river was an evening ritual, too. On my first day, I already managed to spot kangaroos. Perth is full of parks, and Heirisson Island is actually a kangaroo sanctuary, so as you stroll around, you can spot the Roos lying under the shade of the trees. They don’t really bother you, just kind of look at you curiously. It is very cool to see them hop about!
The next day, I went whale watching. October is right in the middle of the humpback whale migration, when they travel with their babies from Northern Australia to Antarctica. I went with Whale watch Western Australia and found them to be a very professional company. Their boat was nice and spacious, and they knew loads about the whales. So I learned a lot, too. We didn’t even need to go far before we were already getting whale sightings. It was truly incredible to see these massive creatures for real. And watching the baby throw itself out of the water many times, and then swim right up next to the boat with its mum were things I will never forget. You depart from Fremantle, about half an hour from Perth. So since I was there anyway I wandered around, enjoyed the beaches, lighthouses and cafes. And also explored a nearby beach, Coogee beach, which was the stereotypical Australian dream; long white sand, and almost empty.
The day after that I booked a trip to Rottnest Island. This is one of the must dos here, and I went with Rottnest Express who I also found very professional. You depart right from Perth, and the first part of the ride you are along the Swam River, so it is interesting to see the city from that angle, and all the fancy houses by the water. Then you go out into the sea, and it gets choppy! But luckily it is not for too long before you arrive at the island. The best way to get around here is to bike, so I rented one, and set off to explore. It was a hot day, and going up and down the hills was hard work. But the views of hidden beaches with the whitest sand and bluest water around every bend was well worth it. I could stop whenever I wanted to enjoy the views, and to meet quokas, the tiny marsupial that call this island home. They’re adorable! After a few hours of that I was pretty tired, so enjoyed some fries by the sea. And a treat to get home: a sea plane! The same company can organise it. It was incredible flying over the clearest and bluest water, and then landing right on the Swan River was bizarre, but amazing!
Of course, I still hadn’t seen koalas. So I took a trip the next day to Caversham Wildlife Park. Also about half an hour away, the drive here was interesting. I even saw more kangaroos just chilling along the side of the road! The park has lots of native animals, many of them rescued. And their biggest stars are the koalas, who are every bit as adorable as I had imagined. You can stroke them and get close to them, but I also enjoyed just watching them go about their day, which was mainly eating and sleeping. But they really are so cute. There were also kangaroos, other marsupials, penguins… lots to see. And it is set in Whitman Park, a huge reserve. I had a walk through afterwards and spotted more wild kangaroos!
On my final day, I rented a bike to explore more of Perth itself, along the Swan River. You can bike or walk for miles, and enjoy the view of marinas and parks and the river. I stopped at the famous Blue Boat House, and the Matilda Reserve, and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the banks of the river. And wished Australia was not so incredibly far away from everything, because I could see myself living there. Either way, I am sure I’ll be back again, one day…
Practical Stuff
Getting here- Perth has a large and quiet airport, with most flights arriving from SEAsia. You will most likely have to transfer through there on your way from Europe. I was lucky that I could fly direct from Bangkok.
Where to stay- I stayed at Mont Claire Boutique Apartments, serviced apartments in the city centre. My room was large and well equipped, if a bit dated and tired, but it did the job. You can walk from there to the river, shops and bike rental. The road it is on can be a bit seedy the further up you go, but it is fine around the hotel itself.
Getting around- Uber is easy to use here, and what I mostly did. Otherwise you can rent a car to explore further afield.
What to do- I enjoyed all the stuff I did. I will link the websites of the companies I used, for whale watching and to visit Rottnest, as well as the wildlife park. If you are out on a boat, keep in mind that it gets pretty choppy, even on a nice day, so if you are someone who gets seasick, make sure you are prepared! Also keep some warmer clothes for when you’re at sea. Perth is well built for biking so definitely do rent one both in and around the city and on Rottnest.
When to visit- in the southern hemisphere of course the seasons are the opposite, so it was spring in October when I was there. I found the weather very pleasant; mid 20s, gentle sun, cool evenings, perfect for exploring. Their summer can be very hot, and their winter cool and rainy. Spring or fall would be my recommendation.
I really liked Perth and Australia in general. Would love to come back to explore more of this giant country, but glad I got to see a lot of what Western Australia has to offer!
By chance I came across this place; researching where I could stay for a long weekend. About a two hour drive from Bangkok, Thailand’s biggest and oldest wildlife rescue Center, Wildlife Friends Foundation Thailand has recently opened rooms too, so that you can stay right at the park. I didn’t really know what to expect, but this place was simply amazing.
As soon as you arrive, you see the elephants. They live in a huge reserve, and from the dining area and main lodge you have an excellent view of them doing their elephant things. There are also gibbons swinging and calling, especially in the morning, their haunting cries an interesting alarm clock!
My room was set away from the main area, down a jungly path. And I had my very own elephant pair for company. These two girls share a separate large area because they don’t get on well with others (all the Ellies were rescued from horrible situations), and I could see them from my room, bed, balcony… so magical. Especially at dusk when they would walk quietly, like giant grey ghosts, their silhouettes under the moonlight.
So my room was great, besides the elephants outside. Large, clean and the downstairs is open on the sides with lots of comfy chairs and tables. And I had a darling cat for company the whole time, who of course, I called Ellie. She loved sitting with me all day! I also loved spending time at the quiet pool from where you could watch the main elephant herd all day, which was amazing, and it was so peaceful, just surrounded by birdsong.
I also did a tour of the rescue Center. This was an informative experience, at times difficult, hearing the heartbreaking stories of all the animals. There are over 800 animals here, and I got to see gibbons, deer, macaques, bears, tigers, otters and more. It is amazing that this place does so much for them, and they have a safe place now to call home. We also had Sausage the dog keep us company, jumping on the cart to come along on the tour! All the dogs at the Center were really sweet too.
The weekend flew by. I had some unforgettable experiences, and magical moments. I highly recommend visiting this place if you’re in Thailand. Not only will you enjoy it, but all the money goes toward helping more of these sweet animals have a second chance.
Practical Stuff
Getting here- it is about two hours from Bangkok and they can organise transport to and from the city, as well as from Hua Hin, the largest city in the area. From Pattaya I arranged a private taxi.
Staying- you can do day trips, but I highly recommend staying at least one night to enjoy the magic of the place. The name of their lodge is I love phants and you can book it via their website which I’ll add at the bottom. My room was the best!
What to do- definitely join their full day tour, and you get to end by feeding watermelons to the elephants. Then enjoy the pool, the views and the utter peace. You can also volunteer here, if you have more time.
When to visit- I came in October in rainy season but we didn’t have any rain and the temperatures were pleasant.
The Wildlife Friends foundation Thailand is an amazing NGO and they have lots of things you can support them with even if you can’t visit, including adopting an animal or donating. You can see that all on their website, as well as booking a tour or a stay at the Center.
BKK, one of my favourite cities. And I’ve been here so many times, I feel I could really do with sharing the best things to see, do and where to stay. Whether you’re just here for a stopover en route to somewhere else, or you are spending a good few days, there’s a lot to squeeze in.
River boats
The Chaophraya river that flows through the city is Bangkok’s lifeblood, and no visit here is complete without chugging along the river. There are many boat tours that will take you along the river, from where you can see the famous temples, floating market and stilted houses. You can also take a hop-on-hop-off boat ride and get off to explore the temples and sights. And, if you’re clever, stay at a hotel that has a free shuttle boat, and do it all for free! The best time is after dark, when the whole city is lit up- it is really magical!
Temples
There are a lot of large temples in Bangkok. You could try visiting them all, but you will likely just exhaust yourself in the heat. If you’re going to see just one, make it Wat Arun the beautiful temple of the dawn. The whole thing is covered in intricate designs and it truly is a beautiful place to spend a few hours admiring the architecture. The rest of the temples, just enjoy them from a boat ride.
Malls
Trust me, you will need the AC breaks. For bargains, try MBK Center. For glamour, Siam Paragon or Icon Siam. For something in between, Central World is a good option.
Parks
Lumpini park is easy to access with the BTS Skytrain, and is the city’s green lung. Spend a couple of hours strolling in the shade, watching old timers do tai chi and look out for monitor lizards swimming in the water or resting in the shade of the trees. One visit we saw thirty of them! They let you get quite close, too.
Rooftop bars
The Lubela tower was where The Hangover was filmed, and their rooftop bar is free to enter, you just pay for drinks. The views from the 64th floor are epic at night. We had a great time there and it is not too busy, so dress nice and take a lot of photos!
Khao San Road
That infamous road. If you really want to visit, go around sunset, and walk first along the large street that leads to the Grand Palace and the emerald Buddha, to glimpse these buildings from outside. There are a lot of decent restaurants here, so you don’t have to go wild, if you don’t want to.
China Town
Bangkok’s China town is a must visit, for the chaos and color, and the old school houses and restaurants. Wander through, laugh at the names (Yoo Fishball, anyone) and then find yourself at Mother Roasters a hidden away cafe with great coffee and adorable cats. If you visit the area around Chinese New Year, you’ll get to see dragon dances, and everyone decked out in red and gold.
Bang Kachow
Just half an hour away, this cute suburb is the perfect place to rent a bike, and spend a sunny day pedalling past the old colonial style houses, over little bridges, and past palm plantations, reminding yourself how things would have been, back in the day. Stop at any of the cute cafes for a drink, and explore hidden paths to waterfalls and temples.
Wat Sam Phran
An hour out of the city, this is the famous bubblegum pink dragon temple which looks like something out of a movie. You can climb through the dragon to the very top, not for those with claustrophobia, but a cool experience, and the grounds are huge so you can easily spend a few hours there.
Disco tuk tuks
Tuk tuks are a fun and handy way to get around, any time of day, but are funnest at night, when the drivers put on rainbow lights and blast crappy pop music from their speakers. A uniquely Bangkok thing to do, get a ride back to your hotel in one of those.
Asiatique
This outdoor shopping area comes alive in the evening, with hundreds of stalls and shops selling everything you can imagine. There are loads of places to eat, places to get your nails done, and board a dinner boat cruise, if you want to. Or just sit and watch the chaos, and the lights along the river.
Further afield- Ayuttheya
About an hour north of the city is the ancient city of Ayuttheya, which is like a mini Angkor Wat. You can visit as a day trip, or stay a night, which is what I did. There are tons of temples and stupas to explore, and there is the famous fallen Buddha head. It is well worth spending a couple of days here; the town is also nice and not at all touristy, with a huge night market and hawkers.
The best hotel
I think I’ve stayed around six times. But I love Chatrium Riverside Hotel. Huge (and I mean huge) rooms which even have a kitchen, huge balconies, a beautiful pool area that you can easily lose a day to, a free shuttle boat, gym, a restaurant with lovely breakfast buffet by the river, what more do you want?
Getting around
Boats, the sky train, Grab taxis, tuk tuks, many options. You can walk too, just be prepared to sweat, a lot.
When to visit
I have literally visited at all times of year, and the weather is more or less the same; very hot, very humid. Rainy season brings epic thunderstorms in the afternoon that are fun to watch from your balcony. Chinese New year is a vibe but very busy. Spring is probably the quietest, but Bangkok is never very quiet. Long story short, any time of year is fine!
I hope you enjoyed this guide! Let me know if I missed anything, or have any recommendations. I did write in-depth about a Bangkok stopover a few years ago, just type Bangkok into the search on this site and you’ll find it 🙂 much love x
Nothing quite like Europe in the summer, and after completing a year in Thailand, it felt so good to be heading home. It was a peaceful summer; catching up with family, lots of time and hugs for Suzi, boating, biking, long walks in the countryside, and we managed to squeeze in the Olympics, too.
When there’s so many islands to choose from in Thailand, how do you know where to go? I’ve done the very hard work for you (tough life, visiting islands) and here is my list of the top ones to visit, two well known, and three under the radar. All are easy to reach from Bangkok or Pattaya.
Koh Samui (for snorkelling)
One of the most well known islands, Koh Samui really has something for everyone. There is a lush interior to explore, coconut trees everywhere, beautiful beaches and the best snorkelling. Pig island nearby is also a highlight. For an affordable but lovely place to stay, try Baan Had Ngam, right on a very nice beach.
Koh Samet(for relaxation)
My favourite island! Come for quiet, unspoilt beaches, clear water and a really laidback vibe. There’s not much to do so make use of those perfect white beaches and relax. Vongdeuan Resort and Ao Prao are both nice hotels. The former is very affordable and right on a quiet peaceful beach, the later more expensive and on a good surfing beach. The jungle backdropping the beaches make this island super photogenic.
Koh Larn (for an easy day trip)
My favourite day trip from Pattaya, but also doable from Bangkok. Koh Larn is full of pretty beaches, warm water, and a really chill vibe that forces you to relax. Stay the night and enjoy the sunset from the sea once all the daytrippers are gone, and stay at Riviera Resort for really good service and rooms with huge bath tubs. The downside? There are no hotels here right on the beach. Monkey beach and Tien beach are my favorites here.
Phuket (for lots to do)
This list wouldn’t be complete without Thailand’s largest island and arguably the most well known. Phuket has some crowded areas, but choose carefully and you can have a peaceful vacation on an island that knows how to host tourists. The airport even has international flights. Plus there is lots to do, from playing with elephants to visiting Phuket Town. 6th avenue Surin Beach is a great hotel with infinity pool and in a quiet area.
Koh Si Chang (for off the beaten track)
The wildcard! An island no one has heard about, for the bragging rights. It’s a bit of an adventure to get here, including taking an old ferry from Sriracha north of Pattaya, but it’s a fun place for a day trip. The beaches are wild and the roads are primitive, but if you want the ultimate island adventure, this is the one. Visit the cave temple, the Royal Family’s old summer palace, and some of the view points and then chill on the only beach which has a few rudimentary umbrellas perched up above the cliffs. There are simple places to stay the night, though I’ve never tried them.
Practical stuff
Bangkok is the gateway to all of these, either with an onward flight or taking a taxi to the nearest port for a boat ride across. I mention some of my favourite places to stay above, too, and things to do. All are best visited in the dry season from November to May.
There you are, my round up of the best. Have you been to any? What did you think? Any others I should add?
Planning a visit to the more famous islands in Thailand can be a bit daunting. When to visit? Where to stay? Which ones are just filled with young partying backpackers? What is there to do besides the beach? Don’t the rains fall at different times on different islands? Is it expensive? And the biggest question- which one should I visit?
Enter- Koh Samui. One of the favourites, it’s easy to see why. There is a real mix of people here. Yes there are some who come to party especially when the infamous full moon party is on on neighbouring Koh Phangan. But mostly it’s full of families and others who just want a fun island escape.
Getting here is easy from Bangkok, or even from Pattaya! I flew directly from the latter. And the airport is possibly one of the cutest you’ll ever see. It’s all outdoors, covered by roofs and the chairs are rattan, there are flowers everywhere… it puts you in the island mood the minute you land. And you can be at your hotel in less than ten minutes from the airport too. One of the nicest beaches is just a short ride away, and there are lots of hotels along it. Mine, Baan Had Ngam was perfect with spacious rooms and a nice pool, restaurant on the beach and located on the far end of the beach, so it was always peaceful.
The sea was so calm you could just float for hours, and in the middle of the day, walk out far, almost reaching abandoned beaches on mysterious uninhabited islands. It was so clear you could see every ripple far below, silvery fish, and the sea grass swaying as you passed it.
And beyond the beach? Koh Samui is made for exploring. Koh Samui is actually called coconut island in Thai and as you drive around it is easy to see why. Long and thin, swaying in the breeze, there are coconut trees everywhere, lending the whole place a decidedly sleepy, tropical vibe. We did a ride around the island one day, stopping at different beaches and viewpoints, and temple complexes. My favourite was the red temple; the whole thing really is ruby red.
And we also drive to the other side of the island , across windy hill roads where the sea would sparkle blue on the horizon. And we took a long tail boat from there across the sea, small islands appearing as we went, all shrouded in a morning mist. We stopped at Pig Island, a vanilla colored speck of sand in the sea. The beaches were almost empty, and so beautiful they were dreamlike, and the water so clear and warm. And the best bit? Piggies! Lots of cute black pigs who call this place home, and coexist here with a lot of dogs. Very unique. From there the boat man took us to another uninhabited island and stopped offshore for snorkelling. It was like swimming in a fish tank; hundreds of rainbow colored fish and beyond the aquamarine sea and the lush green of the jungle tumbling onto the abandoned bone white beaches.
There are lots of local places to eat near the hotel, and the vibe is relaxed and the food is nice and cheap. It’s a good place to sit at the end of the day, sunburnt and tired, but content, and plan your next trip to this special little island.
Practical stuff
Getting here- as I said, you can fly here from Bangkok or a lot of other cities in Asia, too.
Getting around- Grab doesn’t work very well here, so best to ask your hotel to arrange transport.
Where to stay- my hotel was great especially since it was so close to the airport and had access to a lovely beach.
What to do- definitely do a trip to Pig Island for the unique experience to hang out with piggies. The snorkelling nearby that is included is also amazing. I booked the trip with Get your guide and it was really good. Also hire a driver for the day to see all the sights around the island.
When to visit- Koh Samui is one of the drier islands, but still try to avoid the monsoons from June to October, if you can. We visited in May (shoulder season), and the weather was nice.
Chiang Mai. Ever since those 2016 Pinterest days I’ve wanted to visit, after seeing those photos of elephants playing in the river backdropped by forest clad hills, and mysterious temple complexes and waterfalls. This city in the north of Thailand has always been on my bucket list. I travelled there towards the end of the dry season. The waterfalls were just gentle and the ground was drier, but it was still beautiful.
Flying in, a peachy haze seemed to enshroud the city as we landed at sunrise. It was only a short taxi ride to my hotel, a place that’s also been on my bucket list for a while, Proud phu fah Muang. Why? Because their rooms are just beautiful. White and light wood, huge, and the best bit, a swing AND a hot tub on the balcony, overlooking the forest and hills! As you can imagine, I spend a lot of time out there, relaxing.
But also, exploring. The hotel has bikes you can borrow for free, and it is surprisingly bike friendly around the area, there are bike paths and it is quiet, not like other Thai cities. In general, it was such a peaceful place. Birds singing, monks walking quietly, flame of the forest trees everywhere, blossom…
I visited the biggest temple complex here, Doi Sathep. There’s many steps to climb and a good view from the top. The drive up here, winding through the hills in a baht bus is also exciting. From there it’s easy to visit some of the waterfalls and there are different paths to hike. It was so hot I just did a short one, but it was very peaceful.
The best thing though was a visit to Elephant Nature Park. This place also was on my bucket list since the Pinterest days. The kindest place for elephants. A huge expanse of land for them to roam and be safe and not have to be tortured by people anymore. Their stories were heartbreaking; blind, beaten… but they have this safe haven now and people who love them. If there’s one thing not to miss it’s this when you visit Chiang Mai. You spend a half day there, walking close to them but never touching them, and get to learn all about them. Watching a group walk back along the river at golden hour was so magical. And the van ride there and back is lovely too, through the wild mountains.
On my final day, I stumbled upon a temple complex that no one had heard of. With old buildings like those at Angkor, and monks sweeping dry leaves, it was the perfect place to stroll and contemplate life. the same day I also found a local restaurant where you could get good food for such low prices it was no wonder there were queues for tables. The fun of travel, finding these little places.
I really loved Chiang Mai, and I hope I can visit again one day.
Practical Stuff-
Getting here- Chiang Mai has an airport with mainly domestic flights. It’s best to connect here via Bangkok.
Where to stay- I highly recommend the hotel I stayed in, and make sure you book a room with a hot tub. They don’t cost much more and it’s totally worth it for a unique staying experience. They also serve the best coffee at breakfast with non dairy milk!
Getting around- you can use Grab and Bolt, like other parts of Thailand for taxis and motorbike taxis. Biking is also possible in a lot of the area.
What to do- definitely dedicate half a day to Elephant Nature Park and support their amazing work! Also pop into some temples, do a hike or two and just enjoy the nice atmosphere of the place.
When to visit- tricky one. I visited at the tail end of the “burning season” when there is a lot of air pollution, sometimes so bad the airport closes. When I visited there was some haze but no worse than I’ve seen before elsewhere. The days were very hot though, and sunny. Avoid the rainy season if you can, Chiang Mai can flood badly and the roads can become impassable. November and December are probably the best but most expensive!
India… so bittersweet. Always has been, but never more so than this time. Important to go back, but so hard. It was all as I remembered it; the brilliant blue heat-hazy skies, the pressure cookers, the singing cars, the autos whizzing, cows crossing, Jessie, at the gate. The bats and the sunsets and the stars. The Bollywood music, the colour, the dust. The kites calling at midday, echoing in the hot air. The bougainvillea, the crickets, the heat of the afternoon. Grandma’s plants, the swing, the photos on the wall.
Only he was missing, his chair empty, the TV, silent.
