Another new country, to start the year. To Laos, a beautiful, off the radar place with lovely people, beautiful nature and a lot to do. I squeezed this into a weekend too, from Thailand. I flew to the capital Vientiane, and from there, took the two hour drive north, to Vang Vieng. I didn’t see too much, as it was late at night, but when I woke up the next morning, it was one of the most magical sights.
Stepping onto my balcony at the Silver Naga hotel, you could see hot air balloons suspended in the air, the sun rising over the river, green hills and a pale blue sky. I took a jog by the river, watching monks quietly making their way, dogs sleeping, local kids eating breakfast. We took an open sided van to explore.
Heading into the countryside, surrounded by towering peaks covered in jungle, buffalos grazing the fields underneath. Dust from the gravel paths rising up. It was like nothing I’d seen before. We stopped at the entrance to a hike. It was easy at first, just a bit steep. Then suddenly it got harder until we were having to haul ourselves up over rocks and gullies, using jungle vines and bamboo to support us. I wanted to give up, a few times, but somehow made it to the top.
So glad I did, because the views were unreal. Just nature. Mountains, hills, green, brown. Nothing else. So beautiful. After resting we had to make the long trek down, which was even more terrifying. But I did it, and was quite proud, it was not easy and definitely the hardest hike I’ve ever done. From there we drove to the blue lagoon. It was a nice place to rest and have lunch. And then, a peaceful afternoon by the hotel pool, watching boats on the river and a few more hot air balloons, when the sun set.
The next day we took a boat, and had a river tour. These long, narrow boats chug sedately along, and it feels wonderful out there, between those towering karsts of green. Buffalo come down to drink and swim, and we can get up close to them. Kids play in the river, and wave, and try to splash us. Old ladies wash the clothes, men fish quietly… like turning back the clock, to simpler times.
We then went to one of the fanciest hotels around, for a drink, the Vang Tara. If you get a drink or meal here, you have access to their private rice paddies, which are magical. There’s a long path through them, backdropped by those mountains. And if you’re really lavish you can stay the night. Maybe next time…
Practical stuff
Getting here- Vientiane has a small airport and you’ll most likely have to connect here via Bangkok. From there, it’s about two hours to VV. Our hotel organised a transfer.
Where to stay- I liked our hotel, The Silver Naga, right on the river, nice pool, and they can organise tours and transfers. Just a note though, their soundproofing of the rooms is bad.
What to do- so much! Definitely do some hikes but be prepared, they are tough. Also take a boat tour, visit the night market, the lagoons, even hot air ballooning.
Getting around- the central area is walkable, and otherwise the hotels can arrange transport.
When to visit- usually I’d say the rainy season for cooler weather and less crowds but this time I’d say the start of the dry season. Everything is outdoors and the hikes would just be dangerous in the rain. January is a great month because it is dry but still not that hot.
I really liked Laos! Hope to come back one day and maybe try the hot air balloons…
