Morocco was one of those places that just kept eluding me. I’d planned to go at least twice before, and it never happened. Third time lucky, and I finally made it, along with Maya and dad, to mystical Marrakesh. A little getaway, in the middle of February, a break from European winter. Just a two hour flight from Toulouse, and we had landed in Africa.
We arrived at midnight so didn’t get to see too much. But when we woke up the next morning in our Airbnb, we knew we’d made a good choice. Colorful and bright, with a large rooftop garden festooned with plants and cacti and multi colored cushions, it was a little oasis in the ochre city. The best part was watching the sun rise each morning from up there, over the Atlas Mountains, and watching life on the streets below. You could hear the call to prayer, hear the clip clopping of horse hooves, and the coo of pigeons flying between the pink colored buildings.
The first day, we explored Marrakech Center. We went first to El Baadi Palace, a large complex of orange trees, mosaic lined pools and ruins that reminded us of the Forum in Rome. From there we walked on the bustling streets, past the souk, avoiding carpet and lamp sellers. We stopped by a hidden garden close to the main Kotubia Mosque, and watched as tourists and locals thronged through the parks and boulevards.
After a few hours to relax at our rooftop garden, we set off in a rental car. We drove toward the mountains, their peaks filling the windscreen. The city gave way to dusty roads and miles of desert. Desert, but not of sand. More of dust and gravel and stone. We chanced upon a large lake which actually was a reservoir, at Lala Takerkoust. And then drove back via the Agafay desert, spotting camel trains and quad bikers. It was a good introduction to the wilderness, because the next day, we had planned to see a lot more of it.
And so, the next day we set off in the trusty car, into the hills. It was a glorious day with a sapphire sky, and we were all in good spirits when we got to our first stop, the Jarjeer mule and donkey refuge. We loved this place; a safe haven for equines rescued from their lives as beasts of burden, each with their own sad story, but safe here now to live out their days in the sunshine. We got a tour of the Center, and got to meet 300 sweet equines. They liked cuddles, and the place was glorious with views of the mountains and groves of citrus trees. There were friendly hounds for company too. Definitely a place to visit, when in the area.
We left reluctantly, but had to keep going. On, into the mountains. The roads got smaller and windier, and we found ourselves going up and up. Rocks of granite towered toward the sky, mountain goats frolicked on the steep faces, and Berber shepherds led their flocks along the dusty roads. We drove through villages suspended in time, dusty reminants of days gone by. We stopped for lunch, and Berber kids practiced their English on us. We stopped at view points, to ooh and aah at the views and the impossibly blue sky. And we felt far from home, in a good way, and more connected to Africa and the continent that lay before us.
On our last day, we went first thing to the famous Jardin Marjorelle, which we were staying only a five minute walk away from. This beautiful curated garden was set up by the partner of designer Yves Saint Laurent after his death, since Marrakech was a special place to him. It is truly beautiful; every plant, cacti and palm carefully chosen and planted and looked after. The dark blue paint is synonymous with the region, and you can’t help but take a thousand photos of everything because it really is that photogenic. Then we explored the neighborhood we were staying in by foot. I could honestly have lived there; every house was a shade of pink or coral and each was festooned with flowers. Cats slept in the shade, and orange trees were everywhere. It was the kind of tropical, sleepy, leafy neighborhood that I always seem to imagine I’ll find myself living in, one day. We also got drinks at a cute pavement cafe right there, and enjoyed the sun with the regulars.
All too soon, our little trip was over, and we were on the way home. Banking over the mountains, saying bye to Africa, and by to Morocco. A place we were all very pleasantly surprised by, and will definitely be back to explore again, one day.
Practical Information
Getting here- Marrakech has a good international airport and has flights from most European and Middle Eastern destinations. From there it is possible to rent a car, or take a taxi to your accommodation.
Where to stay- I cannot recommend our Airbnb enough (I have linked it below). I really liked the area it was in too, away from the chaos of the medina. But if you’d rather be in the thick of it all, then consider staying in a riad, which looks pretty unique too.
Getting around- you can rent a car and should, to explore the mountains and further afield. Don’t bother driving into the medina though, just take a taxi. And avoid the nasty horse and carriages at all costs!
What to do- in the medina, I would recommend El Baadi Palace, and the souks. Jardin Marjorelle is a must too, make sure you book online in advance and be warned it fills up fast and gets crowded the later in the day you go. Definitely take a drive toward or into the Atlas Mountains. And make sure to visit the darling equines at the mule and donkey sanctuary. Linked all of these below.
When to visit- Morocco and especially Marrakesh has a good climate year round. We visited in February and found it very pleasant to explore. Sunny days and cool nights. The summer can be very hot and less comfortable. Try to avoid the month of Ramadan as many things will be closed.
We had a wonderful time in Marrakech, and it was great to have had a trip with dad again after many years! Thanks to Maya for the beautiful photos xx
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/12613413?source_impression_id=p3_1740847478_P39wvVywa6NLg_Ki
https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/best-day-trips-from-marrakech
