It’s funny that Turkey was never a country I had any plans to visit. Sitting almost in the middle of the world, I’ve flown over it many times but never thought to actually stop by. Finally, I had the chance to, with a short trip to its largest city, Istanbul. I didn’t really know what to expect, but I was amazed by what a beautiful city it is, and just how much there is to do there.
Sitting in the middle of two continents, Istanbul is the only city in the world like that. Our hotel, Limak Eurasia, was on the Asian side, in a business district full of normal people heading to work in glossy offices. There were cute local cafes and shops, and just ten minuets away, the hills closed in on villages, full of pine trees and shady paths. One of these places, Goztepe Park, became a firm favourite of ours. It felt so far from the city; butterflies fluttering through meadow, tall trees, and a very friendly dog we called Micki who hung out with us (and an overly nosy cat).
Another surprise was how boats seemed to be a preferred mode of transport. I guess this makes sense since Istanbul is split by the Bosphorus, and to the south lies the Sea of Marmara. I’d heard that the latter was dotted with islands that were the perfect place for a day trip. So we joined throngs of Istanbulites- whole extended families with picnics, starry eyed couples and groups of young friends, and made the one hour crossing to the islands. The sky and sea were an electric blue, and you could watch the city skyline slowly disappear as the islands crept into view: covered with pine trees and pebbly beaches, almost like those you’d see in Greece.
We disembarked, and it really was like arriving in Greece. Every house was festooned with bougainvillea, there were old ladies hanging their washing out of windows, and spying on proceedings below, there were secret beaches down steep paths, local kids splashing in the water, small shops selling trinkets. And you could only get around by bike, or electric buggy. It was a truly idyllic place to pass the day, the hot afternoon disappearing and before we knew it it was time to take the boat back to the city. Seagulls flew behind us, hoping for snacks, and back in the city, we joined the evening traffic, sunburnt and tired, back to the ACd hotel.
Another day we decided to explore the European side, where some of the most famous sights are. We got a taxi to the port town of Uskudur, and from there, another ferry, this time crossing the Bosphorus to the European side. The ferry was large and spacious, with beautiful views of the city skyline. Again, it was popular with regular people, even commuters, not many tourists.
There was a lot to see when we arrived. We wandered through the spice market and the Egyptian bazaar, narrow streets crammed with lantern and carpet shops. There were beautiful mosques and vendors selling breads, and pigeons swooping around stealing what they could. Then we headed to the nearby neighbourhood of Balat. This colourful area is full of cute shops and apartments literally in every colour of the rainbow. And there was also a lovely area nearby with benches overlooking the Bosphorus for a quick rest before taking the ferry back to the other side.
There is so much more to see, we barely scratched the surface and definitely need to return! And the people were friendly and helpful, and seemed to care for the numerous stray dogs and cats, like Micki at the park, and even our hotel had a resident hound with her own little kennel! Just be warned that English was not widely spoken at all so be prepared to have a translation app or screen shots of where you want to go on your phone.
Practical information
Getting to Istanbul- Istanbul has three main airport, the main two are Istanbul International, served by Turkish airlines and others, and Sabinha Gocken, served by budget airlines mainly. Both are around 30 minutes from the Asian side where we stayed.
Where to stay- we stayed at Limak Eurasia hotel, a very pleasant one on the Asian side, they have a pool, restaurant with outdoor dining and helpful staff. Rooms are clean and the AC is great! There’s a taxi stand right outside.
What to do- as I said there’s a lot to do in and around Istanbul. Ferry timings can be confusing, it’s best to show up at the harbour in good time and enquire there what the sailing times are since these can vary. Ferry crossings are very cheap, and so are taxi rides so I would not bother renting a car unless you plan to travel further outside of Istanbul.
When to go- Istanbul is popular all year round, but be prepared for freezing temperatures in the winter and boiling ones in the summer. I did though like the vibe in the summer and it wasn’t as crowded as I thought.
Thanks to Maya for the lovely photos and for organising this trip!